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epic trip

Iceland: A Country Whose Slogan Should be “Whoa”

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

“Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain.” (Jack Kerouac)

Or go to Iceland.

We returned from our epic Iceland trip on June 25, and I have been trying to write this blog post ever since. For 10 days now, I’ve sat down every morning to write it but to no avail. Why? Simply, it’s hard, if not impossible, to put our Iceland experience into words.

The saying goes that a picture is worth 1,000 words. Nowhere is that truer than in Iceland. I have, however, broken our Iceland experience into parts, and I wrote a blog post for each of the seven parts. I hope you’ll check them out. They are longer in photos and videos than in words, and will hopefully provide just enough information to inspire and/or teach you something about the unique country that is Iceland. I’m including links to those blogs posts at the end of this one.

We have always been an adventurous family and we’ve traveled extensively in the U.S. However, we took things to a new level in 2016. Around 2015, my husband, Jerry, and I made it a goal to take our family on extended vacations at the start of Summer. Our motivation was related to the ages of our boys and the stage of life for our family. Our oldest son, Wolf, just graduated from high school and next year, our middle son Hayden will graduate from high school. (Our youngest son, Fin, will graduate in 6 years.) We made this goal of extended vacations because we wanted to see new places and to experience different countries and cultures as a family while everyone was still “in the nest.” Our hope was–and is–that these experiences will create lasting memories and possibly inspire and inform our sons’ lives and futures.

These extended international trips are not cheap, particularly a trip to Iceland. But while our house needs updating and some renovations, when considering, Should we invest money on our home or traveling internationally with the kids? It’s no contest. Unless the roof is falling in, we’ll always choose travel. Even if it does mean we’ll have to pinch pennies for a while afterward. Or in this particular post-Iceland case, for a long time!

Family selfie from the summit of Brennisteinsalda.

In 2016, we made our first serious international trip. (We had been to Mexico, but that was the extent of our international travel and it was more of a beach resort trip.) We spent 31 days touring 8 countries in Europe In 2017, we took a van trip that started in Vancouver, B.C. and ended in Los Angeles, with stops and experiences at about every city, beach and natural wonder in between. (I’m sorry I didn’t blog about that great trip.) Last year, we went to Paris before exploring Madrid, and then backpacked for 160 miles on the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain before finishing our trip in Barcelona.

This year: 15 days in Iceland!

Iceland’s slogan is The Land of Fire and Ice. It makes perfect sense and is a great slogan. However, I propose their new slogan be, simply, “Whoa!” I found myself saying Whoa! several times a day and more times in Iceland than I have in my entire life.

We keep a family journal on these trips and each night, I nag everyone to write an entry about what the day’s highlights were for them. One day I asked everyone to come up with one word they would use to describe Iceland. Our words were: Mesmerizing, Otherworldly, Breathtaking, Crazy and Unique. While these 5 words fall short, they give you a flavor of the impression Iceland made on us.

The first order of business is to clarify that, contrary to its name and what many probably think, Iceland is not all ice. While it is home to the largest glacier in Europe, and many spectacular glaciers, just 11% of the country is covered in ice. It is in fact very lush. It is full of tall, green hills speckled with plump, foraging sheep. Those tall green hills have ridgetops, and epic waterfalls tumbling over many of them. There are fields of flowers and also scatterings of tiny wildflowers. There are green fields dotted with beautiful Icelandic horses, and great expanses of lava chunks piled all around, often covered by a thin and beautiful green moss. There are also tall mountains, volcanoes, steaming fumaroles and geysers, numerous rivers and lakes, and of course, the Atlantic Ocean.

So if Iceland’s landscape is lush and diverse, why is it called Iceland?

Let’s look to the sagas for the answer. Iceland is a land of sagas–long stories of heroic achievement. The very definition of saga is, A prose narrative recorded in Iceland in the 12th and 13th centuries of historic or legendary figures and events of the heroic age of Iceland (and Norway). According to a story writers Jon Krakauer and David Roberts share in Iceland, Land of the Sagas, late in the ninth century, a Viking named Flóki Vilgerðarson set sail from Norway in search of a rumored land in the North Atlantic. His only navigational aid were three ravens. Once released, the first raven flew back to Norway, the second circled and landed on his ship, and the third raven guided Flóki straight to what is now Iceland.

The story goes that Flóki put livestock out to graze, but he was so busy enjoying the excellent fishing in the new land that he neglected to raise hay to feed his livestock during winter and so come winter, his livestock died. Discouraged, Flóki decided he would return to Norway. But first, he climbed a mountain, and from the mountain’s top, Flóki spied drifting ice floating in a fjord, and he had a brainstorm. To deter other would-be settlers, Flóki would name the country Iceland. (A century later, another Viking, Erik the Red, would pull off the opposite scam. He lured settlers to a different vast wasteland, which was largely covered in ice, and called it Greenland.)

We chose Iceland for our 2019 trip because we considered it an epic destination and in contrast to our other epic trips. We hoped Iceland would be the kind of place that would blow our minds and inspire us. Seeing and hiking on the country’s melting glaciers would be a big part of that.

To say Iceland blew my mind is an understatement.

We’d be in Iceland for 15 days. We rented a 4-wheel-drive vehicle and Jerry and I researched and planned what would be a great road trip that included some of the country’s most popular and highly recommended stops, but also enough free time and space for spontaneous exploring. (Note: Many of Iceland’s roads are still dirt roads. If you want to do anything off the beaten path, you need to rent a 4-wheel-drive.)

During our time in Iceland, my Facebook and Instagram no doubt showed us having a very active and full trip. Some people may criticize our itinerary and suggest it was too full. However, we had plenty of downtime along the way. I just didn’t take and post photos of our boys chilling in their room on their laptops and phones, or napping, or of Jerry and I doing laundry or laying around. 🙂

Our family’s MO (modus operandi) is basically: Start early, go big, finish early. (By the way, we didn’t vote on this MO. This is a system Jerry and I put in place. When it comes to particular values in our family, such as experiencing the outdoors and travel, Jerry and I play captain and we’ve implemented certain systems to ensure we get the most out of these experiences.) It has been confirmed over and over for us that the early bird does in fact get the worm. It’s not that we don’t like and appreciate sleep. But by now Jerry and I know from experience that our adventures are more rich and memorable if we don’t have to share them with hundreds of people all at once. Tourists typically sleep in, eat a big breakfast and pull out to explore at around 10 or 11 am, when everyone else is doing the same thing. We are not in that crowd.

I should also mention that Iceland is quite an expensive place to visit. So unless you have unlimited money and opportunity, you don’t go to Iceland without doing some research. This Iceland trip would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for us and trip planning and research, combined with smart logistics, made all the difference. Our trip exceeded my (high) expectations. We saw and did everything we hoped to do, and then some.

Here’s a map image of our itinerary. It is a good reference for the ground we covered. We traveled the “Ring Road,” but also some side trips and adventures that were off the beaten path. For reference, we traveled the Ring Road in a counter-clockwise direction.

Because I’m feeling lazy and struggling to articulate our Iceland experience, I’m going to simply list things we experienced or learned during our epic trip and am including some favorite photos and videos. (These are not in any particular order.)

–Icelandic is the official language of Iceland. We couldn’t, and cannot, pronounce place names in Iceland. It wasn’t that we didn’t try, but when we learned that the town of Hofn is pronounced “Herp,” we gave up our efforts and from then on just pointed at places on our map when communicating about attractions, region or destinations. Fortunately, not knowing Icelandic was not a problem because everyone was generous and spoke English.

–The people of Iceland are wonderful! Everywhere we went and stayed, the people who greeted and served us were exceptionally kind and helpful.

–There’s a saying, “We all have the same 24 hours in a day.” I would like to challenge that notion. If you’re in Iceland, during summer, your 24 hours are seemingly more than the 24 hours of most other people. With 24 hours of daylight in Iceland, it was possible for us to go sightseeing at 11 pm–or any time of night or early morning–without the need for headlamps and with our views not limited by the dark of night. We loved the possibility and novelty of the 24 hours of daylight, but it was a little disorienting and therefore we didn’t sleep super well. By nature, I’m not a night owl and yet often I’d be reading or thinking about something else to do when I realized it was midnight or later. Still, it’s pretty awesome to have it be “daytime” all the time…

–Iceland is one of the best places in the world to view the Northern lights. The Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) occur when excited solar particles collide with atmospheric gases. The effect produces a neon light show that can last for minutes or even days at a time. Due to the time of our visit, we didn’t see the Northern Lights. (Seeing the Northern Lights is a great reason to consider an Iceland trip in the Winter.)

–Jerry and I make a great team when it comes to adventure and trip planning. I tend to have the initial crazy idea/vision, but Jerry’s such a trooper it’s not long before he’s researching as hard as I am. One of the best things about making these trips is our trip planning. In the months leading up to the trip, Jerry and I spend evenings researching, comparing notes and imagining itineraries. We take particular leadership roles. Jerry leads the effort when it comes to transportation and lodging, and I lead the effort when it comes to researching things to do and see and to discover off-the-beaten-path, best-kept secrets. Ever since our first Europe trip in 2016, the whole family has come to love the anticipation of what our accommodations will be like in a given destination. We don’t typically stay in hotels, but rather opt for apartments or cottages or rooms. When we arrive at a town, getting to see what our accommodations are like feels similar to opening a Christmas present. Thankfully, Jerry is an expert and our various apartments, rooms, and cottages throughout our Iceland trip were wonderful and added to the quality of our Iceland experience.

–Speaking of accommodations, because our boys are pretty much men now, we don’t all fit into one room. Sometimes we’ll fit in one room if there’s a cot or hideaway, but most of the time we simply need more room than one will provide for all of us and our bags, etc. While I love the memories from past trips of us all being stuffed into a single room and the “together-time” that comes with that, given the boys’ ages and size, it makes much more sense to have two rooms. As their mother, I love that our sons have so much time together on these trips, and I know the boys love having their own space, away from their parents, after adventuring and traveling all day as a family.

We rented this “Architect’s Cottage” in Reykjavik for our last 4 days in Iceland. We loved it!

-When planning a trip to Iceland, especially if you’re planning an epic trip that will include a lot of adventure, figuring out roads and routes, and transportation is an important piece of the trip planning. For example, some places we wanted to see are reached after traveling a rough dirt road and therefore, renting a 4WD vehicle is required. Jerry did all the heavy lifting on this end and he did a bangup job!

–In terms of size, Iceland is about the size of the state of Kentucky. Iceland is similar to our beloved state of Wyoming in that it’s expansive and sparsely populated. About 330,000 people live in Iceland. Its major cities, such as Reykjavik and Akureyri, are more like big towns. We loved Reykjavik and Akureyri, and we also loved the small (tiny?) towns of Vík í Mýrdal and Seyðisfjörður.

The beautiful town of Reykjavik.
The charming town of Seydisfjordur.

–Iceland is home to Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Vatnajökull is known as “the water glacier” and covers 3,100 square miles–8% of Iceland. The average thickness of Vatnajökull’s ice is 1,300 feet, with a maximum thickness of 3,300 feet. Vatnajökull has around 30 outlet glaciers that form a mindblowing landscape along the southern part of the ring road. As we drove along the south and southeast coast of Iceland, we were blown away by how many glaciers we could see from the road and that can be accessed with little effort.

Video of the scenic drive from Vik to Skaftafell:

–It was odd to see glaciers to our left and the Atlantic ocean to our right. It felt alpine-like near the glaciers, and yet we were at sea level. In our beloved Wyoming, where some of the largest and last remaining glaciers in the Lower 48 are situated, one must be willing to hike pretty far and climb pretty high to see and travel on a glacier.

Solheimajokull Glacier. We drove 2-3 miles on a dirt road, off of Route 1, to get this up-close view of the tongue of Solheimajokull.

–One of our first adventures was a super jeep ride and ice cave tour. Our guide, “Hawk,” took us on a thrilling bouncy ride to an ice cave that is under the Katla Volcano. Katla Volcano is an active volcano that erupts every 20-90 years. The 5,000-foot-high volcano is covered by a glacier, Myrdalsjökull. We had a fantastic time exploring the beautifully shaped and colorful ice in the cave, and the boys remarked how they loved the feeling of being under a volcano and glacier all at once. We drank from water that spouted out of the glacier and through the ice cave’s roof and got to hike up and spend time on the glacier.

Video of our Ice Cave Tour under Katla Volcano:

Our Viking guide, Hawk, and the boys, on a glacier after our Katla ice cave tour.

–Speaking of volcanoes, Iceland is called “The Land of Fire and Ice” for good reason. The island that is Iceland owes its existence to a large volcanic hot spot that sits astride the middle of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The western part of Iceland, to the west of the volcanic zones, belongs to the North American plate and the eastern part belongs to the Eurasian plate. These tectonic plates, which we viewed above ground in Pingevillar National Park, are separating at a rate of 2 centimeters a year. Iceland experiences a major volcanic event about every five years.

–From the moment we landed in Iceland to the moment we left, we saw lava. It’s everywhere. Since the Middle Ages, a third of all the lava that has covered the earth’s surface has erupted in Iceland. Iceland is home to 32 volcanic systems encompassing around 130 volcanic mountains, 18 of which have erupted since the settlement of Iceland. Situated along Iceland’s south coast, Eldhraun is the largest lava flow in the world. Created during the Laki eruption in the late 18th century, the enormous 565-square-kilometer site is of both historic and geologic importance as well as being a place to explore the persistence of Icelandic flora and fauna. (It is also where the Apollo 11 crew trained for their impending moonwalk in 1969 for its similarity to the surface of the moon.)

–We hiked to the top and around four craters during our Iceland trip. Viti (“Hell”) Crater, in Krafla region, was our favorite. Turquoise geothermal waters fill the dark reddish-brown crater. We also loved Kerid Crater, which is also a lake and is known for its colorful steep sides. We also hiked a 3,000-year-old crater in the Lake Myvatn area called Hverfjall, and we hiked up and around Grabrok Crater, which belongs to the volcanic system of Ljosufjoll.

Video of Jerry and the boys hiking up to Viti Crater’s rim:

–Due to the geological location of Iceland (over a rift in continental plates), the high concentration of volcanoes in the area is often an advantage in the generation of geothermal energy, the heating and making of electricity. Iceland is a pioneer in the use of geothermal energy for space heating, and generating electricity with geothermal energy has increased significantly in recent years. Geothermal power facilities currently generate 25% of the country’s total electricity production.

Jerry and the boys walking around the top of Viti Crater.

 

The boys, hiking around Grabrok Crater.

–Speaking of geothermal energy, Iceland is home to many wonderful hot springs in which to soak adventurous muscles and tired limbs. Upon landing in Iceland, tired and following a 7.5-hour red-eye flight, we loved soaking in Iceland’s most popular geothermal hot springs, Blue Lagoon. We also soaked in other hot springs along the way.

Soaking in Blue Lagoon’s hot, and mineral-rich waters after our 7.5-hour red-eye flight hit the spot, big-time.

–The weather in Iceland is dynamic and always changing–much like it is in Wyoming in Spring or Fall. The wind blows often and when it does it similar to the cold and biting winds we can experience in Yellowstone Park or Wyoming’s high country. (While our rental car had a sticker on its dashboard warning us to hold onto our doors tightly when opening or closing so “they don’t blow off,” I’d spy tiny, delicate flowers rooted in glacier scree surviving and resilient despite the gale-force winds.) During most of our trip, we were blessed with unseasonably warm and reliable weather. Still, we always had layers in our backpack. During our June 10-25 trip, most of the time we had on hiking pants or shorts, with a short-sleeve shirt under a long-sleeve shirt, and our hat, gloves, fleece jackets or hoodies were never out of reach.

–Nootka lupine is a beautiful purple (and white) flower that is abundant throughout much of Iceland. While I loved seeing the flowers everywhere, the lupine is not native to Iceland. In 1945, the lupine was introduced to Iceland to combat erosion, speed up land reclamation and help with reforestation. While it was effective in doing that, the flower is controversial among Icelanders because many are concerned about the plant’s spread to areas where it is detrimental rather than helpful. Still, I loved seeing the fields of purple almost everywhere we went.

Lupine with Skogafoss in the background.

–Speaking of flora, moss is a common plant in Iceland. It grows abundantly in the mountainous region and is a special characteristic of Iceland’s lava fields. One of the most spectacular moss blankets is located on the southern coast of Iceland, over the Eldraun Lava Field. We loved seeing the fields of chunky lava covered in the fragile green moss throughout much of our travels.

Moss on a field of lava, with a glacier-covered mountain in the background.

–No question one of the things we were most looking forward to seeing and experiencing was Iceland’s glaciers. During our drive from Vik to Skaftafell, we took a side trip and short hike to the tongue of Sólheimajökull glacier. Before the trip was over, we would also spend time hiking on and climbing other glaciers, including a guided hike up Falljökull, which means “falling glacier.” Falljökull is a massive icefall dropping down the mountains, crashing its way (in glacier speed)  toward the ocean. Our guide, “Biscuit,” informed us he predicts Falljökull will be melted and gone within 15-30 years, which made our experience feel even more valuable and special.

Jerry the boys, on Falljökull Glacier.

–On these extended family vacations, especially when they’re in Europe, Jerry and I have a tradition of going on happy hour dates after a day’s adventure, when our boys want to be left alone to chill and with their own devices. Jerry and I had probably our most epic happy hour date, ever, on our Iceland trip. After a day of hiking and sightseeing in Skaftafell National Park, and after a family dinner, we checked into our hotel. Our hotel’s front desk manager recommended, passionately, that we explore the path behind the hotel “and follow it through the waves of purple flowers to a glacier.” So after dinner, Jerry and I grabbed a bottle of wine and went looking for the path. What an extraordinary experience! Jerry and I followed a trail up and over hills covered in Nootka lupine. There were no other people in sight, and it was extremely quiet, except for some beautiful birdsong that filled the air. After about 15 minutes of walking, we were rewarded with up-close views of an enormous glacier. There before us was the carved, contoured and colorful tongue of Svínafellsjökull glacier. It was amazing! As if the flower-covered landscape and up-close view of the glacier weren’t enough, the scene’s backdrop was Iceland’s tallest mountain, 6,921-foot-tall Hvannadalshnjúkurit. For as much research as we did before our trip, we had not realized that the glacier that was the scene for many popular movies, and shows, was in Iceland.

Svínafellsjökull glacier is sometimes called “Hollywood Glacier” because it’s been the site for scenes from Interstellar, Batman Begins, Game of Thrones, James Bond’s A View to Kill, and others. Svínafellsjökull is about 1,000 years old and is one of the bluest glaciers in Iceland. Jerry and I sat and shared a bottle of wine while listening to the gurgling sounds coming from under the glacier, and occasional rocks dropping from its melting ice. We had 45 minutes of Solitude. It will be hard to ever beat that happy hour…

Video of the field of flowers on the walk to see Svinafeljokull Glacier:

–We loved Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. The lagoon borders Vatnajökull National Park in southeastern Iceland, and its blue waters are dotted with icebergs from the surrounding Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier. We stood, and walked along the lagoon’s shore, for quite a while just taking it all in.

Jerry, at Svínafellsjökull glacier.

Video of Svinafeljokull Glacier:

Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon.

–We also loved our time exploring Diamond Beach. The aforementioned glacier lagoon flows through a short waterway into the Atlantic Ocean, leaving chunks of ice washed up on a black sand beach called Diamond Beach. It was mesmerizing to stand so close to floating glacier chunks, and they looked like diamonds, especially in their stark contrast to the black sand they landed on.

Diamond Beach.

–We struck unexpected gold when we discovered Landmannalaugar in our trip planning research. Landmannalaugar is in Fjallabak Nature Reserve in the Highlands of Iceland. It is at the edge of Laugahraun lava field, which was formed in an eruption around the year 1477, and it is known for its beautiful landscape of rainbow-colored hills and mountains, lava fields and ts natural geothermal hot springs. We couldn’t wait to do an epic hike in Landmannalaugar and our experience there was definitely near the top of the many highlights of our trip. We hiked many of the trails there, including climbs up the mountains/volcanoes, Brennisteinsalda and Blahnukur. Following our epic hiking, we soaked our tired muscles in the hot springs. It was a perfect end to a perfect day in Landmannalaugar.

Jerry and the boys starting up a mountain in Landmannalaugar.

Video of Jerry and the boys descending Blahnukur:

Jerry and the boys descending Brennisteinsalda, in Landmannalaugar.

–Due to its far north location, Iceland experiences long periods of darkness and long periods of daylight. During our visit, there was no darkness. We mostly loved having 24 hours of daylight and the uncommonly large window of opportunity for seeing and doing things. However, the lack of darkness made sleeping more difficult. Most of us didn’t get very good sleep because we lost track of the time due to no nightfall, plus it was hard to make our apartments and hotels dark enough to fool us into thinking it was night time. But I’m not complaining!

–We loved spending time at Reynisfjara Beach, a world-famous black-sand beach found on the South Coast of Iceland. With its black sands, enormous basalt columns and stacks, and the crashing ocean waves, Reynisfara was a favorite stop for us. The beach was the last stop for one of our sightseeing days and we used our time there well. We had a huge picnic lunch, climbed on the basalt columns and took naps in the sand.

The boys, perched on the basalt columns at Reynisfjara Beach.
Reynisfara Beach.
The boys and I fell asleep on the beautiful black sands of Reynisfara Beach, and Jerry stole this photo of us. 🙂

–We will never forget the 2019 Summer Solstice, because we attended the Secret Solstice Music Festival on June 21, under the midnight sun. It was a spectacular event where we listened to and danced to Jonas Blue, Pusha T, Pussy Riot, and others. When we were getting a cab ride back to our apartment in Reykjavik, we drove near the ocean, where the sun was about to set, yet did not set. It was a spectacular sight I’ll never forget.

Pusha T, performing at the Secret Solstice Music Festiaval, on the Summer Solstice.

–Our grand finale was grand, indeed. We signed up for a guided climb of Snaefellsjokull. Snaefellsjokull is a 700,000-year-old glacier-capped stratovolcano. Snæfellsjökull served as the entrance to the subterranean journey in Jules Verne’s classic science fiction novel, Journey to the Center of the Earth. It was a full-on mountaineering experience that started with a hike through lava fields before putting on crampons, roping up and ascending the glacier-covered volcano. We had an unforgettable time! It was unforgettable to hike through lava fields, to the top of a 700,000-year-old volcano that’s covered by a glacier that’s 2,000 to 3,000 years old. Oh, and with the ocean for a backdrop.

Ascending Snaefellsjokull.

Heading to the very top of Snaefellsjokull.

Video of us climbing Snaefellsjokull:

–There are hardly any trees in Iceland. I often felt the way I feel when I’m above treeline and in alpine country, only we weren’t “above treeline,” and in fact, we were often at the same level as the Atlantic Ocean.

–We didn’t see much wildlife in Iceland because there isn’t much of it. We did feel lucky to see a small black arctic fox when it crossed the road in front of us with a mouse in its mouth.

–Before our Snaefellsjokull climb, in the fishing village of Arnarstapi, Jerry and I went on a short walk from our hotel to the ocean. We were harassed and crowded overhead by a bunch of birds. It was obvious we were intruding and making them agitated so we cut our little walk short. These weren’t just any birds. These were Arctic Terns. And what a fascinating bird. Arctic Terns migrate farther than any other animal in the world. Each year the bird migrates up to 50,000 miles, round trip, from pole to pole. They spend their summers in Iceland and their winters in Antarctica. The average Arctic Tern will, in its lifetime, travel a distance that could take it to the moon and back three times, and as a species, it experiences more sunlight than any other animal.

–The Puffin has become a bit of a national symbol of Iceland. More than 60% of the world’s Atlantic puffin population–8 to 10 million–call Iceland home. The Westman Islands, off the South Coast of Iceland, have the largest Atlantic Puffin colony in the world. Some 30 different species nest over the archipelago, and puffins are by far the most numerous. Puffins, which have black and white feathers and a large, parrot-like beak. A puffin’s beak changes color during the year. In winter, the beak is gray and in spring it turns into bright orange. Puffins are sometimes called “sea parrots” or “clowns of the sea.” Puffins spend most of their lives out at sea, resting on the waves when not swimming.

–Icelandic horses can be seen throughout Iceland. The Icelandic horse is a unique breed of a small horse that came to Iceland with the first settlers from Norway. It’s estimated that there are about 80,000 Icelandic horses in Iceland, and we saw many of them.

–We could see sheep continuously while in Iceland. The Icelandic sheep is a breed of domestic sheep and is one of the Northern European short-tailed sheep, which exhibit a fluke-shaped, naturally short tail.

–Foods in Iceland that are popular and that we enjoyed included skyr, lamb, arctic char, fish and chips, pizza (of course), and believe it or not, hotdogs, which are quite popular. (No, we did not eat fermented shark. LOL.)

–Iceland was settled in the 800s, making it a fairly young country.

–Iceland is home to the first parliament grounds in Europe. In the year 930 AD, the first Parliament met in Iceland in what is today Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

–Speaking of Iceland’s Þingvellir National Park, there you can see two of Earth’s tectonic plates meeting above the Earth’s surface–one is the North American and the other is the Eurasian. These plates jut out of the ground in Þingvellir, and we were able to see where Iceland is quite literally being pulled apart. The tectonic plates separate about 2 centimeters per year. (This is one of only two places in the entire world where one can see two tectonic plates above the Earth’s surface. The other is in Africa.)

–Iceland’s waterfalls blew us away. Our favorites were Seljalandsfoss, a waterfall we got to walk behind, Skogafoss, which is enormous, Dettifoss, which is the most powerful waterfall in all of Europe, Godafoss, which is one of the most picturesque waterfalls I’ve ever seen, and let’s not forget Gullfoss, a gorgeous 2-step waterfall. We also hiked to many stunning waterfall wonders, including Haifoss, Svartifoss, Lítanesfoss and Hengifoss, and the waterfalls of the Gjain region.

Godafoss!
Haifoss!
Some of many of the waterfalls we enjoyed in the Gjain region, in Iceland’s Highlands.
Gullfoss!

–Much of the landscape we traveled through might be considered by some to be “wasteland” or “godforsaken.” Iceland is full of these unpopulated, undeveloped expanses. Certainly, we have some of these areas in our home state of Wyoming. But in Iceland, there are very few signs, very few fences, no shoulders on the sides of the highway, and very few places to pull over. And, speaking of roads, most bridges in Iceland are single-lane bridges.

Video of driving in Iceland. The scene looked like a computer-generated, simulator:

–Speaking of driving, we went through an under-ocean tunnel, called the Hvalfjordur Tunnel, which is under the Hvalfjörður fjord. The tunnel is 3.5 miles long and is about 540 feet below the ocean.It opened in 1998 and was built in order to shorten the distance from Reykjavik to the western and northern parts of the island by 45 kilometers (28 mi).

–We also traveled through a 4.6-mile-long tunnel that led us into the beautiful town of Akureyri.

–Like is often the case in Europe, we often had to pay to go to the bathroom. Except for at the hotels we stayed at you, we often had to pay to use the “WC” (which stands for waste control). The cost was usually around $1US per person and the restrooms were remarkably clean.

–Iceland is expensive. Very expensive. To give you an idea of the level of expensiveness I’m talking about: A beer was about $12US. A hamburger and fries costs about $18-21USD. (Contrast this to our Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trip last summer. In a cafe in the countryside in northern Spain, Jerry and I had fresh octopus and cold beers, and the boys had sandwiches and chips and soda pops, all for $21USD total.) Even though we budgeted as best we could for the trip, and we were as frugal as we could be, we’ll be pinching pennies for some time as a result of our trip to Iceland. I think it’s expensive because it’s so remote and due in large part to the growing number of tourists that visit and must be provided for. (It’s a good thing our Iceland experience was priceless since the experience did not come cheap.)

–Speaking of money, every time we travel to another country we are reminded of our own excess. We talked about this as a family while in the airport waiting to return to the U.S., and everyone in our family agreed about this. Houses are smaller than what we’re used to in the United States, food and beverage portions are smaller, etc. There is just less excess.

I can’t stop thinking about our time and experience in Iceland. It was an off-the-charts experience, and I will never forget it!

To read more specifically about our experience in Iceland, I’ve written the following blogs. Because Iceland is such an epic experience, and because we had 15 days to explore the country, there was a lot to report. I’ve divided the trip into 7 parts:

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and  Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Secret Solstice Music Festival!

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: epic trip, iceland, iceland epic adventure, iceland epic family vacation

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and Reynisfjara Beach

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

Finally, after disembarking from our 7.5-hour, direct, redeye flight from Denver, we had feet on the ground in Iceland! The anticipation as we landed and walked to baggage claim was palpable. This epic trip had been in the works for several months and finally, we were here.

The map for our road trip for Part 1.

After fetching our rental car–a 4×4, which would be necessary for our epic and active itinerary–we found a cafe to snarf some Fish & Chips before driving for 20 minutes to the town of Grindavik. Why Grindavik? Well, trust me, for good reason. The Blue Lagoon is there. We were whipped from the travel, jet lag, and the time change, so nothing sounded better than soaking in Blue Lagoon’s geothermal and therapeutic waters.

(During our trip planning, we read some criticisms of Blue Lagoon–specifically that it is expensive and touristy. And it is pricey, but everything in Iceland is pricey, and we knew to start our epic, 2-week adventure in Iceland with a soak in Blue Lagoon would hit the spot. For reference, the cost for the “comfort package,” which includes a towel, a free beverage, a silica mud mask, runs about $55USD per person. We had reserved our 1pm soak time and tickets online, far in advance of our travels. I recommend this as their capacity fills up far in advance during peak tourism season.)

And there’s a reason Blue Lagoon is considered “touristy.” The secret is out that the Blue Lagoon is a must on any Iceland itinerary. The milky blue, mineral-rich waters are an inviting 102 degrees and are extra beautiful due to being nestled against the surrounding black lava fields.

One of the minerals enriching the waters is silica. We took advantage by applying silica mud mask to our faces, which apparently can do youthful things to one’s skin. I don’t know if I looked, or felt, more youthful after my soak, but I definitely felt relaxed and restored after soaking in the hot waters of Blue Lagoon.

We soaked almost three hours in the hot pools, and it was a perfect start to our Iceland adventure.

Next, we drove an easy hour or so to the small and charming fishing village of Eyrarbakki, where we enjoyed a simple dinner before retreating to our hotel in Eyrarbakki and went to bed early. Our itinerary was ambitious and we wanted to be rested for our start the next morning.

Day 2 started with a stop at the Solvangur Icelandic Horse Center, a family-operated horse breeding farm where people can look at the Icelandic horses or sign up for horseback riding. We spent a little time looking at the horses, and then we stopped at the farm’s Stable Cafe, where Jerry and I enjoyed an Americano and the boys were treated to gourmet chocolate cake for breakfast.

After the leisure start to the morning, we headed for our first stop, Kerid Crater. Once at Selfoss, we’d take a 15-minute spur trip on Highway 35 to Kerid Crater. Kerið is a volcanic crater lake located in the Grímsnes area in south Iceland. It is believed that Kerid was once a cone volcano that erupted, depleted all its magma, and then collapsed under the magma’s weight. (I had read about the Kerid Crater in Atlas Obscura long before we chose to visit Iceland, so it was extra neat to be able to see the crater.)

We had to pay 400 Icelandic Krona per person ($3.25USD) to tour and walk around the crater, but it was well worth it. We walked about the crater’s rim, and also we walked around the sapphire blue-colored lake that fills the bottom of the volcano. The crater’s walls are composed of rare red volcanic rock, and the colors of the rock, combined with vegetation, give the walls of the craters a rainbow palette.

After exploring Kerid Crater, we headed up the road, Route 1, filled with anticipation. Next up would be our first of many waterfall stops: Seljalandsfoss.

Seljalandsfoss is stunning as it tumbles almost 200 feet. The waterfall is part of the Seljalands River that has its origin in the volcano glacier Eyjafjallajökull. One of the unique things about viewing Seljalandsfoss is there’s a path behind the waterfall, allowing for a unique behind-the-waterfall vantage. Of course, we took the path. Looking out from behind the waterfall, and getting sprayed by the waters of Seljalandsfoss, provided an invigorating experience.

Video of Seljalandsfoss in Iceland – from behind the Mist

After leaving Seljalandsfoss, we took in views of several other waterfalls we could see tumbling over the lush green ridge tops to our left. To our right were intermittent views of the Atlantic Ocean.

One thing we were already falling in love with were the fields of purple flowers. The purple flower I’m talking about is Nootka lupine, or Alaskan Lupine. The flower was everywhere, providing fields of purple in the foreground.

There are fields of the knee-high, non-native purple and white flower throughout Iceland. The lupine is not native to Iceland and is considered by many Icelanders to be invasive. The flower was imported from North America in 1945 to combat erosion, speed up land reclamation and help with reforestation. The lupine took off and many would say it has taken over much of Iceland, including areas it’s not desired and can be detrimental to some of the country’s vegetation.

The flower’s presence, although loved by most tourists, is controversial in Iceland due to the damage it does when it spreads to areas where the flower is detrimental. But more on that later. For now, let’s just say the fields of purple in the foreground of voluminous waterfalls took my breath away.

Next up: Skógafoss. Skógafoss is a waterfall that tumbles about 200 feet. The waterfall is situated on the Skógá River in the south of Iceland at the cliffs of the former coastline. Often a rainbow, or two or three, can be spied in the mists of the huge waterfall.

Standing at the base of the falls took my breath away. The sheer volume of water tumbling before us was humbling. Words fall short in the presence of such natural wonder. Jerry and the boys and I stood at the waterfall’s base and said nothing as we watched its power.

We were happy to discover that the price of a short uphill hike was physical and not financial. 527 steps to be exact. We took the uphill hike to the waterfall’s brink, and I can tell you, it’s worth the effort to get the brink view of the waterfall.

Video of Skogafoss

Legend has it that behind the Skogafoss waterfall is a chest filled with gold and treasures. The story goes that Þrasi Þórólfsson, the Viking Settler at Skógar around 900, hid the chest and it was said that the first man who went to the waterfall “will find great treasures.” I’m telling you, Skógafoss waterfall is a treasure in itself!

After stopping to take photos of some more beautiful waterfalls and cascading rivers, we took a spur trip down a gravel road when I noticed the word, glacier, on the sign.

We drove a few miles up the bumpy gravel road to be rewarded with what would be our first close-up view of a glacier in Iceland. Sólheimajökull is a glacier situated between the volcanoes Katla and Eyjafjallajökull, and is part of the larger Mýrdalsjökull glacier.

Sólheimajökul Glacier.

Iceland, especially given its name, is thought by many to be a cold, white and ice-covered landscape. It was surprising to us, as it is to many who visit Iceland for the first time, to see that in fact, the country is largely green and lush.

However, 11% of Iceland is covered by glaciers, and its main ice cap, Vatnajökull, which is the largest glacier in all of Europe, covers 8% of Iceland, occupies 3,100 square miles, and is the source of at least 30 outlet glaciers.

Next up for us was Dyrholaey. Dyrhólaey, formerly known by seamen as Cape Portland, is a 400-foot-high promontory located on the south coast of Iceland, not far from the village Vík. It was formerly an island of volcanic origin.

Video of Dyrholaey area:

After Dyrholaey, we headed to Reynisfjara Beach, which would be our last “To Do” for our Day 2 in Iceland.

Reynisfjara is a world-famous black sand beach that is With its enormous basalt stacks and its stunning setting against the Atlantic Ocean, Reynisfjara is spectacular! (Don’t just take my word for it, though. National Geographic voted Reynisfjara as one of the Top 10 non-tropical beaches to visit on the planet.)

Because Reynisfjara Beach was our last stop for the day, we lingered there for 3 hours. Upon arriving, the boys ran for the vertical basalt columns and proceeded to climb them and find a perch on which to sit. After that, we wandered the black sand beach and climbed to the top of a huge boulder where we had a great picnic and Jerry and I shared some wine. We had great views of the Reynisdrangar Sea Cliffs, which stand under the Reynisfjall Mountain. The towering, spiky basalt sea stacks jut out from the ocean and are 217 feet tall. After our picnic and exploration, the boys and I all fell asleep on the beach while Jerry hunted for interesting rocks and other items in the sands. It was our first of many epic naps in Iceland. 🙂

The bys ad I fell asleep on the black sands of Reynisfjara Beach.

We overnighted in the quaint seafront village of Vík í Mýrdal, a small fishing village on the South Coast of Iceland.

It was a great first full day in Iceland!

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Secret Solstice Music Festival!

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: epic trip, iceland, iceland epic vacation

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About Shelli

Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live on the frontier in Lander, Wyoming. I’m a wife, a mother, an entrepreneur, certified life/leadership coach, wellness coach, keynote presenter and inspired speaker, leadership development facilitator, personal development strategist, writer and adventure guide. This blog mostly includes stories about adventures and travel, but other passions are reading/books, technology, fitness, nutrition, and national parks, so you’ll find a wide range of articles here. I am founder of Yellowstone Journal and YellowstonePark.com, and NationalParkTrips.com, which was my first business. My current company, Epic Life Inc., is in its 7th year, and going gangbusters. If you’re interested in learning more about my current work, I hope you’ll jump over there and learn more about that. I have a more personal blog, more directly related to life and living and leadership, at YourEpicLife.com/blog. I’d love it if you’d also check out that collection of my writings. Thank you for stopping by! Finally, if you’d like to connect with me directly, please email me if you’d like to connect.

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