• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Have Media Will Travel

A blog about outdoor adventure, family travel, national parks, media, technology, marketing, fitness and me.

  • Travel & Tourism
  • Family
  • Fitness
  • Frontier Life
  • National Parks
  • Life and Leadership
    • Life Coaching
    • Epic Adventure
    • Leadership
    • Keynote Presenting

grand canyon

Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim of Grand Canyon: 46 miles, 23,200′ of gain/loss, 23 hours

May 26, 2010 by Shelli

Howdy.

The Grand Canyon is considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. After having traveled by foot from one rim to the depths of the canyon across the Colorado River to the other rim, and then back again, I can tell you, from intimate experience, that this claim to fame is merited.

The 277-mile-long canyon is carved by the Colorado River and is over a mile deep. As of Friday at 1 p.m., I checked off a major life list item, hiking Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim of the Grand Canyon in one day. Yeehaw!

My husband, Jerry, and I had on two previous occasions (in 1999 and 2009) hiked from the South Rim to the Colorado River via the South Kaibab Trail, to Phantom Ranch and then back up to the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail in a day. It is no walk in the park. It’s an epic hiking experience that allows hikers to test their physical abilities while experiencing the interior of the fantastic abyss that is the Grand Canyon. It has to be one of the most popular and difficult day hikes in the world.

The signs are important and relevant for most visitors.

BUCKET LIST ITEM:
During the last one of these hikes, in April 2009, I etched in my mind that I might want to try the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim sometime. The Rim-to-Rim, which is pretty impressive in its own right, involves hiking from either the South Rim, to the river, and up to the North Rim, or vice versa. It’s no small feat. However, you have to bother with logistics of arranging for a shuttle or some other way to transport you back to the rim at which you started. What a hassle, right? Why not just double it and end up on the rim you started on?

Many ultra runners and other people who are in exceptional physical shape have done the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim. In fact, many are undertaking the effort as I write this.

One thing I feel compelled to mention is that this is not for the faint of heart. A Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim should only be considered by those who are in exceptional fitness. It’s also critical when deciding whether to embark on this enduring adventure to realize that you will be responsible for yourself. Even though I had a hardcore trail companion with me who is part adventure athlete, veteran trail expert and editor of Backpacker Magazine, there is no way I could place my burden(s) on my hiking partner, or anyone else. Simply put:  You don’t enter the canyon and begin an effort like this unless you’re confident you can get yourself in and out on our own. Just sayin’.

The Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim has been occupying my dreams since I first put it there a little over a year ago. I’ve spent the last 13 months losing fat and weight and getting myself in the best shape of my life. Part of the reason for the added effort was so I would be ready if/when a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim opportunity would present itself.

OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS

That opportunity came when friend and colleague Jon Dorn, editor-in-chief of Backpacker Magazine, left me a message eight days ago that said “Can you call me? It’s urgent.”

To my pleasant surprise, he was going to be at the Grand Canyon for some meetings and had a “spot” for me if I still wanted to give the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim a go. My husband, Jerry, whose support for my adventures and fitness endeavors is significant, was excited and helped me find a way to say yes to Jon’s invitation.

So, Thursday, May 20, at 1:30 p.m., we were delivered by park shuttle to the South Kaibab trailhead on the South Rim, and just like that we were off.

OUR ROUTE
Here’s what we had cut out for us: Start at South Kaibab trailhead on South Rim, at 7,260′ elevation. Descend South Kaibab Trail, cross the Colorado River, pass through Phantom Ranch, situated at 2,480′, along Bright Angel Creek in Bright Angel Canyon to Cottonwood Campground, up the North Rim via the North Kaibab Trail, which is situated at 8,241′, turn around and repeat the same trails to Phantom Ranch. For the home stretch, we’d ascend the 10-mile Bright Angel Trail to the top of the South Rim, at 6,860′.

All told, we’d gain and lose about 23,200′ of elevation and travel 45 miles. In one push/one day. (By the way, it was to be 45 miles. But Jon’s Garmin indicated in the end that we in fact hiked 46 miles. I’m not one to argue with Garmin, especially if its number is greater.:> Besides, I bet you’d get not a single argument from anyone who has hiked up the final three miles of the Bright Angel Trail when I proclaim this: It’s longer than 3 miles! It has to be!)

Jon Dorn, making his way down the top of the South Kaibab Trail.
Hikers feel tiny in scale when hiking the depths of the Grand Canyon.

PHANTOM RANCH
Except for stopping for various video clips and photos, we descended the South Rim/South Kaibab pretty quickly, arriving to Phantom Ranch by 4:30 p.m. Phantom Ranch is listed on the U. S. National Register of Historic Places. The site where the ranch is now located was used by Native Americans; pit houses and a ceremonial kiva dating from about 1050 have been found there.

After our arrival, we quickly learned we arrived 20 minutes after the store had closed. There was brief torture as we smelled steaks marinating and cooking nearby. We re-filled our water, used the restroom and visited with four guys who had spent the day descending the North Rim and were setting up camp for the night at Phantom Ranch. (Note to self: “Reasonable” people experience the Grand Canyon by hiking down and then spending a night at Phantom Ranch before hiking back up. But also, make note of this: Phantom Ranch is one of the most popular destinations in the national park system; accommodations are often sold out for a year in advance.)

Jon at Phantom Ranch. 7 miles down, 39 to go.

After about 30 minutes of rest and refueling at Phantom Ranch, we continued on. We still had a long night ahead of us, and to be exact, about 39 miles remaining. A mile or so into the continued hiking, we stopped briefly and Jon loaned me some duct tape to cover a pretty big hot spot that was developing on the ball of my right foot. With Jon’s help, I tended to it, and we continued on our way.

Enjoying some rolling trail terrain alongside Bright Angel Creek, in Bright Angel Canyon, beyond Phantom Ranch.

The next miles of trail were rolling and magnificent. The trail meandered in and out of Red Wall formations in Bright Angel Canyon, which is carved by a rushing, voluminous Bright Angel Creek. For a handful of miles beyond Phantom Ranch, we hiked alongside or within an earshot of the creek. A nice bonus was catching a glimpse of Ribbon Falls.

BLISTERS START CRASHING THE PARTY
Around mile 9, shortly before night was to fall, I had the rude realization that I had a new blister. I could feel, without a hot spot warning, that the inside of one of my smaller end toes had just broken. We stopped again and I removed my shoe to get a look-see. Not good. Sure enough the inside one of my end toes was completely torn and now had a flap of skin loose exposing red. I wrapped it with duct tape.

Jon hikes by a Century plant during dusk. Next stop: Cottonwood Campground.

At this point, Jon, a veteran hiker, backpacker, cyclist and adventure racer (read: hardcore adventurer/athlete), looked at me and said something to the effect of: I know you don’t want to hear this. But clinically speaking, I don’t know how you can work through that/those. We still have 33 miles to go. We can turn around now and it’s probably only 12 miles. I’ll give you an out. Those are some blisters. If we continue to the North Rim and you have to bail, there are no services there.

Demoralized. The crux of the whole adventure had changed. At this rate, no longer would the challenge be the physical undertaking, but rather the physical undertaking with what would surely be completely damaged feet. As we sat on rocks on the side of the trail and I considered how to proceed, this is the reality I faced.

“I can’t quit or turn back,” I said. I didn’t elaborate. But, I was suddenly nauseous and brimming with doubt. I was concerned if I would have the constitution necessary for such a colossal task given the circumstances. And yet, I was also thinking to myself that the disappointment of having to quit and not complete this, after getting this awesome opportunity, making the trip down here, and given the significance of it to me, would outweigh the torture of continuing. At that moment, I felt certain, quite certain I might add, that I could better handle the physical pain of continuing than the emotional pain of calling it quits.

“Let’s go,” I said. And to this, Jon said, “Okay.”

FROG-STOMPING
And off we continued. Night began to fall. The last light on the inner canyon, combined with the sound of the creek rushing by were spectacular. A small stretch of trail took us through a swamp that was brimming with frogs. We could hear frogs loudly making their noises. In fact, I feel bad to admit this, but I stepped on a frog that was in the trail. Jon told me that I stepped on one. That made me feel bad and I watched the trail more closely after that!

Then, just like that, it was dark. Next, we arrived at Cottonwood Campground, where we used the restroom, filled our hydration packs and our bottles, and put on our headlamps.

Jon fills with water at Cottonwood Campground, which was last water stop for 14 roundtrip miles to the North Rim and back.

Night was upon us. This would be new territory for me. I’m not a night owl. Certainly I have never hiked during the night, let alone through it. I am a morning person who usually goes to bed around 9 or 10 p.m. With headlamps on, we started what would be a 7-mile ascent of the North Rim. We had our work cut out for us. We had the entire night before us, as well as the adventure’s most significant work, a climb of hundreds of steep switchbacks totaling, on the way up, about seven miles and 5,000 feet of elevation gain. Same for the way down.

ROARING FALLS and HIKING ON THE EDGE OF THE GRAND CANYON, LITERALLY
Soon we were on a trail that was very exposed. Carved into the rock walls and the North Rim, the trail meanders along the Grand Canyon. Although it was pitch dark at this time, we could feel the void below to our right. Note to self: Do not get sleepy on the way down. There is no margin for error during the day, even less during the night.

Soon we heard a tremendous roar of water. It was Roaring Springs, a good-sized, steep waterfall. We had only a quarter moon, but it was enough to illuminate the entire gushing waterfall that was to our right. It lived up to its name as we heard it for a long time as we hiked. The white of its water glowed bright from the moon’s reflection. It was a sight to behold.

Hiking at night was awesome. It was a unique experience for me and the temperatures were cooler. Combined, this provided a pleasant reprieve from the foot torture. Although my feet were both pretty slaughtered with blisters by this point, my mind was preoccupied by the adventure of hiking through the night, hiking literally “on the edge” of the Grand Canyon, hearing the roar of a waterfall and seeing stars shining bright overhead. Also, I’m just guessing, but I’m betting there is psychological benefit to ascending the North Rim in the dark, when you can only see the spot in front of you and not what must be an unrelenting, steep and seemingly-never ending trail.

Crossing one of many bridges while descending the North Rim.

We often refer to Grand Canyon hiking as occurring on a “dusty trail.” However, you don’t realize just how dusty is it until you hike through it at night with a headlamp on. We were not exactly “kicking” up dust, and yet before me, between my eyes and the trail, was nothing but a cloud of dust particles. It was thick to the point of softening/blurring my field of view. Many times I stubbed a toe (usually a blistered one) on a rock that I didn’t see due to the cloud of dust that stood between my eyes and my feet. When I turned around to see where Jon was, all I could see was this circular haze glowing with light formed by his headlamp. I know our skin was painted with red dirt and dust so that the trail was dusty was not news. But during the day when we have all the light we could ask for, the amount of dust that surrounds us is just not visible.

SCORPIONS, BATS AND OTHER NOCTURNAL CRITTERS

The most exciting thing was when I saw something in the trail move. Upon closer inspection, I saw it was a scorpion! Jon and I both marveled at it and snapped some photos before continuing.

Freak out! A scorpion! A big one at that.

After that sighting, it seemed scorpions were everywhere. Small scorpions, in particular, were out en masse. In addition, bats fluttered by, one time causing Jon to leap into the air. They fluttered around us as we made our way up the North Rim. It was really quite surreal! I also took a photo of a creepy spider that had a “see through” body. I could see his little organs, even. Unfortunately my camera didn’t do a good job of capturing all the life I saw at night. I guess you’ll just have to take my word for it.

THERE ARE NO COFFEE CARTS IN THE GRAND CANYON’S DEPTHS
So, I’m not a night person. I also should mention I love coffee. Except during pregnancies, I don’t remember the last time I went 24 hours without coffee. I was worried about getting drowsy and disoriented on the steep switchbacks leading to the North Rim. With about 2,000′ feet and two miles to go to the rim, I decided to decrease some of the weight in my pack by consuming a 5-Hour Energy I had packed along — sort of an ace up my sleeve, if you will. It worked! I practically ran up the final 2,000′ to the North Rim. Despite my blisters, I felt a rejuvenation and capitalized on it, for I knew it would likely be short-lived…

RIM-TO-RIM COMPLETED – HALFWAY THERE!
We arrived to the North Rim right at midnight. What a night so far! And I was still awake. And, most importantly, we had completed a Rim-to-Rim! How about that?! The North Rim was, well, quiet and without life. There is no civilization or development. It was pitch dark. All that awaited Jon and I was a trailhead sign, an interpretive display and some piles of snow. Not sure if I mentioned my pack was exceptionally heavy. Time to get out and eat the watermelon and quaff the Pabst Blue Ribbon I had hauled. It was awesome!

Jon and I posing/documenting our arrival to the top of the North Rim.

We took a quick seat by the sign. We were now at just under 8,300′ elevation, and it was a little cold and windy. After putting on another layer, posing for a quick photo and capturing a short video, we headed back down.

At this point, I was eager to use the Leki hiking poles Jon offered me for the adventure. While I hiked unexpectedly strong up the final push to the North Rim, descending — with each foot sliding on the rugged steep decline — would almost certainly extend the blister damage to my feet with each step. As a result, the descent would be slow going for me. (Note: Hiking poles are the bomb.)

Jon quaffed a Red Bull and was on his way. I told him to go ahead. He is 6’6″ (with super long legs — I’m guessing an inseam of about 50″?) Anyway, I knew I’d be slower going down than up due to the foot damage and sliding that would occur, so I encouraged Jon to crank it and go ahead at his desired pace.

Jon, stopping for quick star-gazing break.

STAR GAZING
Jon would hike ahead and then stop briefly to lie on his back, turn his head lamp off, and gaze at the black sky that was filled with diamond-bright stars and soak in the magnificent quiet while I caught up. My feet hurt and at this point it was truly a “march” of sorts for me. I would get in a rhythm and didn’t stop often, for fear of not getting started again. I am grateful, though, for one time in particular, on a bridge on the way down from the North Rim, when Jon said “Turn your light off. You have to. Just for a minute.” Then, the next couple of minutes of star-gazing in the depths of the Grand Canyon marked one of the fondest of all my mini experiences along the way of our Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim. (Thank you, Jon, for insisting that I stop just for a minute!)

Soon, we were at Cottonwood Campground. Still hiking in the dark, we could start to hear Bright Angel Creek in the vicinity and I was encouraged by the fact that a new day was about to arrive. After using the restroom and re-filling our hydration packs once again, we continued. At this point, after hammering my feet for what were 7 miles of steep, rugged, sliding downhill steps, I was looking forward to anything that was not downhill. I had to do some extra soul searching to get the gumption to keep a good attitude during the next 6.5 miles to Phantom Ranch.

Me, at first light, in Bright Angel Canyon, en route to Phantom Ranch.

SUFFERING, BUT IN A SPECTACULAR PLACE
I took a couple of deep breaths and took in my surroundings… where we’d just come from, and to the distant South Rim ahead, which marked our destination. It occurred to me, at that moment of first light and while looking at the distant South Rim, that we were now moving toward our destination. We had turned the corner so to speak. That realization helped provide energy in my step, and I was on my way.

You know, this would not be an honest post if I didn’t at this point mention that my blisters were absolutely agonizing. There is just no other way to describe it. Each and every step was like walking on knives or sharp cactus. One can only imagine how many steps it takes to hike the Rim-to-Rim-Rim. For approximately the last 34 miles of the epic hike, each step was agonizing. While I mentioned the blisters on occasion, including in the video clip included near the bottom of this post, I was careful not to complain. I did not want to ruin my experience, and very importantly, I did not want to negatively impact my friend’s experience. Fortunately I determined early on, on the verge of tears and a prospective tantrum that would have featured a bunch of cuss words, that these actions would not be productive, and that they would in fact make me more miserable.

Looking back. That would be the North Rim in the distance.

So, instead, I looked around at the magnificence of the place. I did this, constantly, and throughout my hike, from the onset of the first blister, and it worked miracles for me. The fact that I could see, let alone experience, a place that is so grand in scale and in beauty, well, I felt lucky. It is the Grand Canyon and what it holds within its depths that somehow gave me what it was I needed to have a great experience and complete my goal, despite my mangled feet. I also drew inspiration from thoughts of my family and friends. Thinking about the less fortunate, such as Bhutanese refugees, or anyone who is disabled, also spurred me into action and immediately removed the urge to pout.

Okay, Phantom Ranch arrived — or rather, I arrived. Finally. Jon was catching a cat nap near the canteen. I used the restroom, woke him up with a song (let’s see if his memory is the same as mine), and then we filled our water, snarfed a Slim Jim, which was just the load of salt we each were craving. (Make a note to pack one Slim Jim for your Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim. It packs a lot of salt and you’ll thank me for this important recommendation.)

FOOD AND WATER
Some important words about food and properly fueling. I have had experiences with 50-ks and other trail running events, long day hikes and backpacking trips that require disciplined hydration and fueling. For this epic adventure, I’d be hiking in a hot, rugged environment that would tax my muscles and internal systems for almost 24 hours. Fueling and keeping hydrated were going to be critical for my success. Especially once the blisters prevailed, I focused hard on my eating and drinking. That, after all, was something I could control. And I would be diligent and well-fueled even if my blisters crippled me.

I figure I consumed about 564 ounces of water during the effort and snarfed approximately 14 different kinds of energy bars. In addition, I ate a Slim Jim, about eight packets of Gu, several Clif Bloks, Milk Duds and an apple. I knew from what the experts say, and from past experience, that I needed to stay ahead of the game on food and water. It gets really challenging to eat when you don’t feel like eating. But I realized almost immediate benefits when I consumed a half of a bar here, or a packet of Gu there.

APPETIZERS? YOU BET
And wait, I can’t forget to mention that Jon surprised me with appetizers at night fall: Jalapeno-stuffed olives and marinated green beans. Seriously! Even though I could only handle two or three without my lips blowing up in flames, they were to die for. He also shared some peanut butter pretzels, which hit the spot, and another of my favorites, corn nuts. Near the end of the hike, as I made my way like an ant on the final march up the huge wall under the South Rim, I found that putting a handful of Skittles into my mouth was extremely delightful — and helpful.

Next up: The End. But not before we ascended the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim.

Starting up the Bright Angel Trail, the final 10 miles to the South Rim, or The Finish Line.

THE HOME STRETCH
Well, what can I say? The last several miles, particularly the final 4.5 miles from Indian Creek to the end, I hiked on attitude alone. Sure, my feet and legs moved. But given the terrible condition my feet were in by this late stage, it was sheer will that got me to the top of the South Rim. Well, that and a margarita-flavored sucker I had purchased on impulse at a convenience store while traveling the day before.

And let me not forget all the people I shared the trail with and the conversations we shared. I always take time to say hello to my fellow hikers and this day was no different. On this day we all had the Grand Canyon in common and I couldn’t help but feel a kinship.

Regarding food, something funny happened to me about two miles from the finish. My stomach, although it felt fine and was not upset, was making noises that sounded like “alien communications.” Seriously. Beeping and quiet screams. Loud enough that I’m sure others may have heard the sounds. I think my stomach was revolting — fortunately only in voice — about all of the various foods I fed it during the last day and night. I didn’t blame it one bit, but it was a first time for me to hear what sounded like aliens communications coming from my midsection. It made me laugh. And at that point, anything funny or unusual had the potential to help propel me a bit further.

Finally, I arrived at the top of the South Rim. Yeehaw! I had completed the effort. What an amazing experience. This was an adventure of a life time. I will never forget any of it. Because of the blisters, I practiced “mind over matter” at a level I never before had been required to practice. And although I would not wish my blistered feet on anyone, mine was 50 times the accomplishment as a result. The fact I had to suck it up and somehow manage the bad news that were my feet helped me to grow in ways I hadn’t set out to do. I have a better idea of my ability now when it comes to mind over matter.

The Grand Canyon changes people. Certainly this grand experience I have shared with you here has changed me. And I’m better for it.

To wrap this too-long post up, at the start of this event, I had parked my car in the El Tovar parking lot. When I got to the top of the South Rim, the El Tovar was nowhere in sight. I asked someone where the El Tovar was. “About a 10- minute walk along the Rim there.” It took me 60 minutes to hobble there.

During the hobbling to my car, a huge gust of wind came up and without warning, lifted my tried & true and well-worn cowboy hat off of my head. Given my agonizing feet, I didn’t budge to save it or chase after it. It abruptly blew to the edge of the Rim and took flight into the Grand Canyon. How fitting, I thought. I hope some adventurous soul found/will find it and put it to good use. It was good to me.

(POSTSCRIPT: about one hour after finishing, I realized I must have lost some weight. It’s common to burn 13,000-20,000 calories on a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim effort that’s done with no overnights. My wedding band was literally slipping off my finger. But then I ordered for the first time ever a “Baconator” from the Wendy’s drive-thru in nearby Tusayan, and it suddenly fit again. An update regarding my feet: I went to an Urgent Care during my road trip the next day and got several blisters drained and cleaned, and went on antibiotics. I think I’ll get to use ’em again! I’ve already speculated enough about what went wrong with my feet. I knew from experience that blisters might pose a problem for me but nothing to this extent. I had good used shoes on and tried various different pairs of highly-rated socks of all thicknesses. I was well hydrated. All I can figure is it had to do with starting the hike in high heat or possibly my pack was too heavy, what with the watermelon and 18-pack of PBR in it, and all.)

———–
Some ENTHUSIASTIC THANKS are now in order:
–Thank you to Jon Dorn, for providing me with the opportunity to achieve this “life list” adventure. He made a perfect trail companion.
–Thank you to my husband, Jerry, and our three sons, for supporting and loving me, and allowing me to embark on such adventures.
-Thank you to my parents and siblings and all of my friends for the support and love.
-Thank you to Steve Bechtel of Elemental Training Center, for helping get me to a high level of fitness.
–Thank you to Jackie Stockton, Mary Mandel, and others who helped provide childcare for our youngest son so I could log some additional training to prepare for this epic adventure.
–Thank you God.
–Thanks Leki, 5-Hour Energy, energy bars, Gu and Slim Jim.

Me, leaning on my poles and managing a smile. Almost there. Less than 1 mile to go!
Just a little bit of the damage.
DONE! Yeehaw!

Filed Under: Fitness, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: adventure, endurance, grand canyon, national park, rim to rim to rim

Havasu Falls turns to Yosemite

May 9, 2009 by Shelli

As I posted recently, my plans to go on a quick backpacking adventure to Havasu Falls abruptly came to a halt. The Havasupai Tribe has cancelled all camping reservations, and access, to the remote waterfall region in the Grand Canyon west region during the month of May.

Bust?
Bust?

My friend, Sabrina, and I had planned the trip as a belated celebration of each of us turning 40. Havasu Falls is a ‘bucket-list’ item for each of us.

So for the last couple of days, we have been in a scramble to find a Plan B, given our flights into Vegas have long been booked.

It couldn’t just be any Plan B. It had to be epic. Havasu Falls would have been epic.

We can’t do Zion, or Grand Canyon, because I only recently returned from these regions. And, our scheduled flights won’t allow enough time to travel all the way to the North Rim to hike.

Thankfully, last night I discovered that Virgin America has $95 dollar roundtrip flights from Vegas to San Francisco.

Bingo! Just like that we have an epic Plan B. We’re going to Yosemite!

Yosemite HD Video 5/4/09 from Chris Falkenstein on Vimeo.

It will be a quick trip, but we can’t wait. It will be a first for both of us.

We just launched MyYosemitePark.com. For several weeks I’ve been reviewing great images, videos and content about the national park. And well, what can I say? I’m completely inspired and intrigued and feel a need to experience its grandeur firsthand.

So that’s what we’ll do.

Stay tuned. In a week or so I’ll be beaming it all to this blog.

In the meantime, I’m telling you firsthand that there is no vacation like a national park vacation. They’re my favorite and we have many in the West. Start planning a memory-making trip that won’t break the bank to a national park. Although Yellowstone, the world’s first, is my all-time favorite (I’ve been there probably 200 times), they’re all unique and special in their own way. Grand Canyon, is an abyss carved by the Colorado River that is 277 miles long and 10 miles wide. Start planning the fun here!

Filed Under: National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: backpacking, grand canyon, havasu falls, havasupai, swine flu

Swine Flu stops Havasu Falls trip

May 2, 2009 by Shelli

Dang.

A friend and I have had a backpacking trip to Arizona’s Havasu Falls planned for a few months now. Our flights have long been booked and we’ve been excitedly talking about and planning for our trip.

Havasu Falls(also called Havasupai) is a remote waterfall in the Grand Canyon West region that is a sight we’ve both wanted to see.

We planned the trip as a belated celebration for each of us turning 40. We’ve been talking about the 10 miles we’re going to hike with backpacks on, and, in particular, about the two days of leisure reading and soaking in pools while getting misted by waterfalls. We’d work hard and then we’d enjoy some sweet relaxation. It would be brief, but epic. A quick but perfect adventure.

Not anymore. Thanks to the Swine Flu.

No. I didn’t get the Swine Flu. But I did get a message on my cell phone yesterday evening from the Havasupai Tribe that our camping reservation has been canceled, along with all access, until June 1.

The message didn’t say why; it just delivered the bad news. When I tried calling the four numbers I found on the internet for camping information, they all rang busy all night long. I’m sure there are hundreds, if not more, who are as bummed as I am about the closures.

A Twitter user, I posted a tweet asking the twitterverse about the closure, and within a few minutes @marianmarbury responded it was the Tribe’s effort to try and prevent Swine Flu was penetrating their small, remote community.

Well darn.

I guess we could do what most women who turn 40 probably do… consider a spa weekend? Nah, I’d feel guilty. This was supposed to be an adventure with some hardship but mixed with leisure and great natural wonders, not a catered splurge.

I recently returned from major trips to Zion National Park and the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, the remaining options for short-yet-epic backpacking adventures that can be accessed from Las Vegas, which means our options are limited.

For now, Havasu Falls will remain elusive, and an item on the lifelist.

Any ideas for us, please email me. Thanks in advance.

Filed Under: National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: backpacking, grand canyon, havasu falls, havasupai, swine flu

Grand Canyon Railway: 2 trips in 1

April 13, 2009 by Shelli

The Grand Canyon Railway claims its customers get to enjoy two trips when they ride the historic train to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim: a trip to the Grand Canyon and a trip into the past.

It’s an accurate claim, and what a spectacular adventure!

Old West Gunfight.
Old West Gunfight.

Our family just returned from a Spring Break vacation that included 3 days in the Grand Canyon region. On our middle day we enjoyed the Grand Canyon Railway. We showed up at the Depot in Williams, AZ, located about 50 miles south of the South Rim, at 9:30 am. From there we got our tickets and then walked about 25 yards to the corral where we watched a great Old West gunfight skit and reenactment. It was really entertaining. Our three young sons loved it and we got some laughs at the great actors. My parents were along and also enjoyed the show.

We boarded the train at 10:20. We rode Budd Coach for our trip to the South Rim. Coach is the most economic option. There are four classes: Coach, First Class, First Class-Dome (“Observation Dome”) and Parlor (Luxury) Class. Coach, although the most economical of the classes, was still wonderful.

Seating was comfortable and entertainment was provided. We enjoyed interacting with one of the gunfighters in the Old West Show, as well as some great guitar music and singing.

Entertainment along the way.
Entertainment along the way.

The cars are historic and the train ride truly brings the Old West to life. It’s a great way to sit back and have a cultural experience that is also a lot of fun, and where someone else is doing the driving.

Around 12:45 the train delivered us to the Depot on the South Rim, near the historic El Tovar Hotel, where we walked about 50 yards to a free shuttle that took us to Maswik Lodge, where our group of 7 enjoyed a great cafeteria-style lunch where there was something for everyone. After that we walked a little ways to catch the Red Route/Hermits Rest shuttle system.

At Trailview Overlook during our train layover.
At Trailview Overlook during our train layover.

From there we took in great views of the Grand Canyon at Trailview, Hopi Point and Powell Point before heading back to catch the 4:30 return train.

Jerry, the kids and parents wait board the return train.
Jerry, the kids and parents wait board the return train.
We moved up to First Class for our return trip.
We moved up to First Class for our return trip.

For the return trip we had upgraded to First Class. Now that was extra comfy. Comfortable bucket seats and snacks and beverages were enjoyed. But regardless of what Class you’re sitting in, the return is packed full of entertainment.

Train robbers!
Train robbers!

For starters, we got robbed!

We were riding along visiting and enjoying the snacks and scenery when all of a sudden our young boys noticed a train robber/bandit on a horse racing right outside our train window. Wow, now that was exciting. Suddenly everyone got alert as our PSA informed us of how to protect our money and what to do if they overtook our train.

Five days later, our boys are still talking about the train robbery! It was a hoot to say the least.

Oh oh. Hide your wallets.
Oh oh. Hide your wallets.

In between all the excitement I had special press privileges to tour the Parlor/Luxury class sections of the train. Parlor Class has restaurant-type seating…comfy and roomy seating with tables, and lots of windows. Also, very importantly, if you’re riding in Parlor Class, you can enjoy the back outdoor deck. I was able to stand out back and listen and watch as the train took us down the tracks. It was very exciting! Champagne was another benefit, which I reaped when I was touring the back.

Luxury Class has its benefits.
Luxury Class has its benefits.

It was an adventure our family won’t soon forget, and it added to our Grand Canyon vacation experience. For our adventure, we took the 10:30 train, arrived to Grand Canyon at 12:45, enjoyed lunch and the free shuttles to major overlooks on the Red Route, including Trailview Overlook, Hopi Point and Powell Point before boarding the return train at 4:20 pm. It was just right for our family.

However, Grand Canyon Railway also offers packages that are very reasonably-priced and probably are the best package and value. For example, you can spend the first night in Williams at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel, then board the train the next day and spend that night at a lodge on the South Rim of Grand Canyon then return the following day. There are all kinds of packages available and we’d highly recommend any of them. Go to TheTrain.com for more information.

Here’s a little video production that covers the adventure:

Filed Under: Family, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: adventure, arizona, grand canyon, grand canyon railway, guided tours, national park, sightseeing, south rim, travel

Hiking in & out of Grand Canyon in Same Day

April 12, 2009 by Shelli

The first sign is right at the start of the South Kaibab Trail: WARNING: Do not attempt to hike to the bottom of the Canyon and back in a single day. The signs are numerous, and for good reason.

South Kaibab Trailhead
South Kaibab Trailhead

We had seen them all before, though, 10 years earlier when we had embarked down the trail, and despite their warnings, had survived to tell about it.

You see, my parents had agreed to meet up with us for the Grand Canyon part of our Spring Break. They rented an RV for the first time and the plan was they’d watch our boys on Tuesday, April 7, while Jerry and I attempted to hike the South Kaibab Trail to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch (at the Grand Canyon’s bottom) and back out via the Bright Angel Trail. We were pretty certain that we were not in as good of condition as we were the last time we did this. After all that was before we had kids and during a time when we were training for our first 50k trail run. Still, given the fact my parents would be there to watch the boys, we couldn’t resist the opportunity.

Warning: Do Not Attempt to Hike to Colorado River and Back in One Day.
Warning: Do Not Attempt to Hike to Colorado River and Back in One Day.

My dad was a trooper and awoke with us at dark thirty to drive us to the Bright Angel Lodge where we’d take the first hiker shuttle of the day, set to pick us up at 6 am. We’re early risers so this wasn’t a big deal. In fact it felt like sleeping in for us.

In the dark we swigged coffee while riding the shuttle to the trailhead.

It was beautiful out. The almost-full moon was still visible, and as we started down the trail in front of a few other hikers, I could tell it was going to be an epic day.

The biggest challenge about this hike isn’t the distance, although it’s long for a day hike. Certainly the elevation gain and loss is a huge challenge. We would descend 4,700 feet, and ascend 4,700 feet, all in a single day. Still, the elevation gain and loss is not the hardest part.

Halfway down.
Halfway down.

The problem with this hike is you go down, and then you go up.

I live in western Wyoming. Mountain country. Every hike I take heads up first, then down. I’ve grown accustomed to working first then getting the reward. Hiking up in the morning, down in the afternoon.

Hiking to the depths of the Grand Canyon and out is the exact opposite. I know: Duh, it’s a canyon, not to mention a big, deep one. But it’s important to mention this because if you do this single day endeavor, there’s almost no way to avoid walking up hill during the heat of the day and on tired legs.

Here are a couple of short videos that show some of the trail:

So, while hiking down the South Kaibab Trail at a fast clip we were very much aware that what goes down certainly must go up. The South Kaibab Trail begins near Yaki Point on Desert View Drive. The first mile takes hikers down more than 1,000 feet and 1.5 miles to Cedar Ridge, where great views surround you, and a bathroom is available. The next 1.5 miles drops another 1,000 feet to Skeleton Point.

We took a gazillion photos and video clips on the way down and made some brief stops to let mules pass, as well as to strip layers as it became warmer as the sun rose and we dropped to lower elevations. In a little over three hours we were crossing the Black Bridge across the Colorado River, at 2,400 feet elevation. In all, we dropped about 4,600 feet on the South Kaibab Trail.

At that point all we could think of was the Snickers bar and lemonade that awaited each of us at the Phantom Ranch Canteen. But it was about another half mile or so before we could reap that reward. The Snickers and lemonade met our expectations and before we knew it we were back on the trail by 10:30 am.

We stopped on Silver Bridge to watch the huge volume of water rush by below us and to watch a few groups of rafters navigate their way down the green Colorado River. Boy, that looked refreshing. (Note to self: Figure out how to experience a rafting trip without having to wait a decade)

Bright Angel Trail is the most heavily-used trail on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.
The bottom of the Bright Angel Trail starts out as a mellow trail that parallels the river for a mile or two before changing its mood and rising more steeply. Still, for the first half of it’s 9.6-mile distance from Phantom Ranch, it’s a pretty reasonable grade.

Jerry hiking up Bright Angel Trail.
Jerry hiking up Bright Angel Trail.

About halfway up, near Indian Gardens, it gets a personality that’s wicked and unfriendly if not downright mean. After Indian Garden, it becomes a stairmaster for five miles. (If you must know, you still have 3,000 feet of vertical to hike up – in just 4.6 miles)

Probably the cruelest part of the trail is when you reach the “3 mile house.” At this point you can see the teeny, teeny people standing on the Trailview Overlook waaaaayyy up above you and you are reminded in an “in your face” way the vertical distance you still have to travel. (Again, if you must know, there are still 2,000 feet of vertical to hike up.) It’s no accident – or joke – that there is a 911 call box on the side of the trail at this point.

911 call box.
911 call box.

The last three miles up Bright Angel are truly a course in character (and calf muscle!) building. Unless you hiked down in the wee early morning hours of the day and you’re a rapid hiker, you’ll be hiking this vertically-oriented section of Bright Angel in broad daylight and under the heat of the sun. Fortunately there is some reprieve from the sun against the rock walls.

And try as you might, you can see that there is clearly no other way up/out. It’s humbling to say the least. The sun was in full, not a cloud in the sky and we had hours and miles on our feet. We weren’t skipping anymore, and the smiles on our faces in the photos we snapped probably weren’t natural, if you get my drift.

Here’s a sampling:

The trail switches for a long distance, and of course you can see the switchbacks, which are not friendly ones. They are steep and seemingly never-ending. The scale of the Canyon’s rim towering over the trail is enormous. Hikers resemble ants, with their day packs or backpacks upon them, and appearing to be moving at a snail’s pace in a march up the mountain. A death march perhaps?

People hiking up at this point in the trail, regardless of where they’ve come from or how many miles are on their legs for the day, seldom say much. On the other hand, hikers descending the trail are giddy and skipping and seemingly oblivious to how the return trip is going to treat them.

Finally, we made it to the top. It took us a little over 9 hours. That includes several very short stops, mostly to take photos or to capture videos.

We don’t recommend this single day hike for people who are not used to hiking up and down mountains or for those who can’t take the heat. I would never recommend this during the summer, and in fact wonder how anyone could do it, or better yet, why anyone would choose to.

All that said, this hike remains one of our favorites. It’s a huge accomplishment to think at the end of the day that we started at the top and walked on our own two feet all the way down, across the Colorado and back up. Certainly it was a physical accomplishment, but also a mental one.

The Grand Canyon is one of the most studied geological landscapes in the world. It offers a record of three of the four eras of geological time. To walk down into and through this exposed and massive land erosion is quite the unique experience. I felt tiny and insignificant in the spectrum of time as I took in the great abyss that surrounded us.

To be sure, the aforementioned hike provides an interior view of the Grand Canyon that is unmatched.

Here is an 8-minute video that pretty much covers the entire hike:

Filed Under: Fitness, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: backpacking, bright angel trail, grand canyon, grand canyon hiking, national park, phantom ranch, south kaibab trail

  • Go to page 1
  • Go to page 2
  • Go to Next Page »

Primary Sidebar

About Shelli

Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live on the frontier in Lander, Wyoming. I’m a wife, a mother, an entrepreneur, certified life/leadership coach, wellness coach, keynote presenter and inspired speaker, leadership development facilitator, personal development strategist, writer and adventure guide. This blog mostly includes stories about adventures and travel, but other passions are reading/books, technology, fitness, nutrition, and national parks, so you’ll find a wide range of articles here. I am founder of Yellowstone Journal and YellowstonePark.com, and NationalParkTrips.com, which was my first business. My current company, Epic Life Inc., is in its 7th year, and going gangbusters. If you’re interested in learning more about my current work, I hope you’ll jump over there and learn more about that. I have a more personal blog, more directly related to life and living and leadership, at YourEpicLife.com/blog. I’d love it if you’d also check out that collection of my writings. Thank you for stopping by! Finally, if you’d like to connect with me directly, please email me if you’d like to connect.

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • LinkedIn
  • Twitter

Subscribe For Email Updates

Check your inbox or spam folder to confirm your subscription.

Archives

Links

  • Your Epic Life
Copyright © 2022 · Have Media Will Travel