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Family

Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland: The Land of Many Fountains, Cows with Bells and Epic Food

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

Oh. My. God. We have arrived. Today we rode many trains from Munich to arrive here, Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland. Immediately it was evident why this place is called Lauterbrunnen –- which means, “Many Fountains.” In the Swiss Alps, Lauterbrunnen is set in a valley featuring tall cliffs, and waterfalls, including the roaring Staubbaach and Trummelbach and the many other tall, ribbon-like and tumbling waterfalls.

(By the way, this is my 5th blog post published so far during our 29-day “Epic Europe Family Adventure.” If you’re interested, all previous trip reports from this Epic Family Adventure include are listed and linked to at the bottom of this blog post.)

Jerry and the boys lead us to our accommmodations in Lauterbrunnen.
Jerry and the boys lead us to our accommodations in Lauterbrunnen.

Waterfalls were tumbling off high cliffs above us and all around us. Below is a lush, green valley with few buildings. We walked in a light sprinkling of rain about one-third of a mile to find what would be our favorite accommodations so far, a really neat cabin in the Jungfrau Campground.

We got settled in our cabin, and then headed for a quick walk. We had been sitting in trains all day so wanted to stretch our legs and check out our new destination. We ventured to the nearby showstopper of a waterfall, Staubbach Falls. With a height of nearly 300 meters, Staubbach Falls is the second highest waterfall in Switzerland. It is one of 72 waterfalls in Lauterbrunnen Valley.

Staubbach Falls.
Staubbach Falls.
Staubbach Falls.
Family selfie in front of Staubbach Falls.

Did I mention how awesome our accommodations were?!! Check out the video I snapped on our first morning waking up. And enjoy the bird songs in the background:

We woke up early in Lauterbrunnen because we had big plans, and wanted to get an early start. Today we would hike the Lauterbrunnen-Murren-Gimmelwald-Trummblebach Falls loop hike.

We’d do it without using any lifts, so it would be a big, long day. Why would you not take the tram lift up at the start in order to remove the several thousand feet of vertical uphill hiking, you ask? Well that is a good question! The reason is Jerry and I mistook meters for feet. What we thought would be a 1,000-foot vertical gain in the beginning of the hike was really 3,000+ feet. Oops. Thankfully we hike a lot with the boys in Wyoming, and they’re used to climbing lots of vertical feet. But, despite what our boys think, ours was an honest mistake!

Add to that it was raining when we started, so we had had on rain jackets, and each of us carried our own umbrella. Our sons are such troopers. And so is my husband. I am so blessed that to have a family of troopers, because today’s outing pretty much required that!

Here are some photos from the first part of our epic hike:

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It was during the grunt of uphill through the lush and wet forest, when I was gasping for air and the miles of uphill were so never-ending that I realized that we had forget to convert meters to feet. Jerry and I would pay for this… We were certainly not winning parents-of-the-year honors this morning…

We had heard that Winteregg would be a stop we could make after the first five or six miles of hiking, and that we may even be able to enjoy some hot chocolate there. Thank God it was true.

After about 2.5 hours of hiking, we spotted it and it just opened as we arrived. Jerry and I enjoyed coffees and the boys had hot chocolates.

My guys, getting a hard-earned rest and beverages from Winteregg, during our hike.
My guys, getting a hard-earned rest and beverages from Winteregg, during our hike.

The woman who waited on us was so kind, she offered to take our photo outside under three giant mountains, whose tops were obscured by clouds but whose presence could still be felt. The mountains we stood under are the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau.

Family photo.
Family photo.

After warming up and getting rested, we snarfed some special Swiss chocolate bars we brought. (We are now in love with Milka bars, and of course Toblerone, which are in abundance here.) We loved the next part of the hike becasue it was flat, and led us to the awesome – and car-less – town of Mürren.

Hiking from Winteregg to Mürren.
Hiking from Winteregg to Mürren.

According to Wikipedia, Mürren is a traditional Walser mountain village in Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, at an elevation of 1,650 m (5,413 ft.) above sea level and unreachable by public road. Tourism is popular through the summer and winter; the village features a view of the three towering mountains: Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Mürren has a population of just 450, but has 2,000 hotel beds.

Our boys, sitting in front of Jungfrau in Mürren.
Our boys, sitting in front of Jungfrau in Mürren.

All we knew was that it was a beautiful town and soon, we could see it. And more importantly, soon we’d be eating at a restaurant there. By now the boys, and Jerry and I, were famished!

We decided on the Eiger Guesthouse for lunch, and it was an exceptionally good pick. Jerry and I shared cheese fondue and a basket full of fresh baked bread, along with a pint of beer for Jerry and a glass of red wine for me. The boys shared a pizza and also ate some of our fondue. Never has a meal hit the spot so well! Here are some photos:

OMG, we finally got to experience firsthand, Switzerland's cheese fondue. It was worth the wait! Incredibly yummy.
OMG, we finally got to experience firsthand, Switzerland’s cheese fondue. It was worth the wait! Incredibly yummy.

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After a filling, delicious and long lunch break, we continued down the trail. Next stop: Gimmelwald, a smaller car-less village that Rick Steves recommends. Gimmelwald is a small village situated at about 4,000′ feet elevation.

Gimmelwald also won us over. It’s another charming village. We especially loved their “Honesty Shop – Europe’s First Unattended Self-Service Village Shop.”

Wolf, in front of the Honesty Shop.
Wolf, in front of the Honesty Shop.

And, then, out of nowhere, we stumbled onto the Pension Gimmelwald Biergarten. Can this hike get any better??!! I don’t think so. It’s epic for so many reasons, most of which I’m including here. 🙂

Jerry, two thumbs up for the biergarten that was not a mirage, but a reality!
Jerry, two thumbs up for the biergarten that was not a mirage, but a reality!
Biergarten refreshment.
Biergarten refreshment.

We loved this part of the hike, where we walked past big cows with their jangling bells around their neck, and views of the green lush valley below, toward which we were descending, and of course, waterfalls everywhere around us.

These cows with bells are everywhere, and you can hear their jangling bells as you hike.
These cows with bells are everywhere, and you can hear their jangling bells as you hike.

See for yourself what this stretch of hike was like:

Jerry and the boys, marching at this point. :) About 2 miles left in the day's trek!
Jerry and the boys, marching at this point. 🙂 About 2 miles left in the day’s trek!
LOL. We think "wanderweg" means wandering. When this photo was taken by my husband of our two oldest sons, we had been wandering all right. All day long! :)
LOL. We think “wanderweg” means wandering. When this photo was taken by my husband of our two oldest sons, we had been wandering all right. All day long! 🙂

We continued down to the valley floor, and another 1.5 hours from there to one of the area’s most famous waterfalls, Trümmelbach Falls.

According to MySwitzerland.com, the Trümmelbach Falls are the world’s only glacier waterfalls that are accessible underground by lift, galleries, tunnels, paths and platforms. They alone carry the meltwater of the glaciers from the Jungfrau down to the valley – up to 20,000 liters of water per second. The water carries with it over 20,000 tons of boulders and scree per year and causes the entire mountain to shudder and make a thundering noise.

We paid to see what all the fuss is about, and it was worth it! Here’s a video:

The boys and I in front of Trümmelbach Falls.
The boys and I in front of Trümmelbach Falls.

When we got back to our cabin, we had hiked 16 miles, including 3,400′ of gain. We were all completely fulfilled and exhilarated, despite being worn out. It was such a fantastic day that included so many highlhights. I’ve tried to list most of them, but trust me when I say there are even more. I simply need to end this blog post so I can get a little shut-eye before we ride a train tomorrow to Zermatt, Switzerland.

Thank you for following along with us on this Epic Adventure. I hope you’ll stay tuned for our upcoming posts.

Next up: Zermatt, Switzerland (including the Gornergrat train ride and views of the Matterhorn and a report about another epic hike we’ll do in that region.)

If you’re interested, here are all of my previous blog posts about this Epic Europe Family Adventure so far:
• From Wyoming to the British Museum and Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew in 24 hours
• Big Ben, River Thames, Tower of London and Ice Cream
• Munich Day 1: Glockenspiel, Deutsches Museum, Englischer Garten and Beirgarten
• Biking in the Bavarian Alps, Exploring Neuschwanstein Castle, Epic Beer & Food

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: eiger, epic hiking, family adventure, fondue, gimmelwald, hiking, jungfrau, lauterbrunnen, monch, murren, staubbach fall, switzerland, switzerland hiking, trummelbach falls, waterfalls, winteregg

Biking in the Bavarian Alps, Exploring Neuschwanstein Castle, and Epic Food and Beer

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

Hi! We were so excited for today! For it is a day we’ve been looking forward to since we started planning our itinerary 7 months ago. The day would include riding bikes in the countryside of the Bavarian Alps, and we’d get to see two famous and spectacular castles – Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau.

(By the way, this is my 4th blog post published so far during our 29-day “Epic Europe Family Adventure.” If you’re interested, all previous trip reports from this Epic Family Adventure include are listed and linked to at the bottom of this blog post.)

We set up the tour via Viator with Mike’s Bike Tours. We walked 20 minutes from our flat to Mike’s Bike Tours office, which is conveniently located near Hofbrauhaus and Marienplatz. Along with about 25 other people, we boarded a spacious, air-conditioned bus. By the way, also check out Bus Bavaria. This is a partnership with Mike’s Bike Tours that makes for an even more awesome overall day tour experience.) The bus has a bathroom in it, and we were treated to a DVD and much “insider information” from our guide, Ryan, Mike’s Bike Tour. In addition, we could buy a water, beer or pop during the 2-hour road trip. Don’t fret about the time on the bus during this full day activity. It allowed for us to catch views of so much more beautiful country that we would have missed otherwise. Also, we ordered our food for the lunch we’d have later, which meant our food would be ready for us as soon as we finished our bike tour, and just in time to refuel and enjoy before starting the hike to the castle. And, like I said, the bus ride was pure comfort!

We did have one brief traffic jam, that made me think, juts for a split second, that we were still at home on the frontier of Wyoming:

Ha! A Bavarian traffic jam. Our Wyoming traffic jams often have cows in them, too.
Ha! A Bavarian traffic jam. Our Wyoming traffic jams often have cows in them, too.

After enjoying sights out of the bus’s huge windows of the green hillsides and the snow-covered Bavarian Alps, we got off of the bus and quickly selected bikes and hit the trail with our wonderful and fabulous guides from Mike’s Bike Tours, Brad, Mica and Ryan.

We LOVED riding bikes in the Bavarian countryside!
We LOVED riding bikes in the Bavarian countryside!

As we biked, there were wildflowers everywhere, and often, we could spy the spectacular fairylandish Neuschwanstein Castle, which we would hike to and tour after lunch, and also we could see the Hohenschwangau Castle.

Neuschwanstein Castle is at left.
Neuschwanstein Castle is at left.
Our sons, in front of Swan Lake.
Our sons, in front of Swan Lake.

Check out this video — it sums up how awesome the biking and the tour was more than any words I can use:

Group photo during the bike ride.
Group photo during the bike ride. That’s Neuschwanstein Castle in the background.

After biking for 2 hours in beautiful weather and few people, we went to the restaurant where our lunch was served immediately to us. Oh. My. God. Lunch. About that. Our meals were to die for. Absolutely delicious. And, the setting was unbeatable. Bavarian Alps with a view of Neuschwanstein Castle in sight. To get a better idea of the epic food, check out the photos I captured:

Hayden, about to eat his pork roast and dumplings and cabbage.
Hayden, about to eat his pork roast and dumplings and cabbage.
Jerry's German sausages meal.
Jerry’s German sausages meal.
Wolf and his pork knuckle and potatoes.
Wolf and his pork knuckle and potatoes.
Fin's rump steak and "chips." (He was off climbing on a homemade wooden jungle gym.)
Fin’s rump steak and “chips.” (He was off climbing on a homemade wooden jungle gym.)
Jerry and I, enjoying the local braumaster's private, small batch of beer.
Jerry and I, enjoying the local braumaster’s private, small batch of beer.
Jerry, getting a tour from the restaurant owner and brew master.
Jerry, getting a tour from the restaurant owner and brew master.

Another thing we loved about this particular tour provided by Mike’s Bike Tours, is that they gave us plenty of time to enjoy our delicious meal and relax and enjoy the scenery before hauling us off to hike to and tour the castle. There was plenty of time to really immerse ourselves in the scenery, the biking experience, the delicious meal, and still have plenty of time to hike and enjoy the castle, too.

After getting our fill of great food and beer (and for the boys, Orange Fantas — which were described as “orange juice with gas in it”), we rode the bus for a few minutes and then started hiking a short steep hill so we could enjoy a guided tour of Neuschwanstein Castle.

We are from Wyoming, and we hike a lot, so the short hike to the castle, although steep, was nothing for us. Here’s a short video. It was a beautiful hike up through a lush forest of trees:

At the start of our hike, we could spy Hohenschwangau Castle, which was a treat since we had chosen to do a bike tour rather than also explore that castle. Hohenschwangau Castle (High Swan County Palace) is a 19th-century palace that was the childhood residence of King Ludwig II of Bavaria, and was built by his father, King Maximilian II of Bavaria.

Hohenschwangau Castle.
Hohenschwangau Castle.

As we were almost to Neuschwanstein Castle, we were rewarded with one of the best views of the trip. Check it out:

Epic view!
Epic view!

Neuschwanstein Castle (“New Swanstone Castle”) is a nineteenth-century Romanesque Revival palace on a rugged hill above the village of Hohenschwangau near Füssen in southwest Bavaria, Germany. According to Wikipedia, the palace was commissioned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria as a retreat and as a homage to Richard Wagner. Ludwig paid for the palace out of his personal fortune, and by means of extensive borrowing, rather than Bavarian public funds.

The palace was intended as a personal refuge for the reclusive king, but it was opened to the paying public immediately after his death in 1886. The palace has appeared prominently in several movies such as Chitty Chitty Bang Bang and The Great Escape and serves as the inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle.

Neushwanstein Castle.
Neushwanstein Castle.

The tour of the castle lasted about a half hour. The castle did not disappoint. It was beautiful and magnificent. The murals were out of this world amazing. We felt privileged to be inside of such a magnificent palace that is situated in such an awe-striking setting.

We returned to Munch by 7:30pm, and couldn’t believe how fulfilling and exhilarating – and perfect – the day was for us. As a family, we’re keeping a journal of our trip. Every night we each contribute to the journal, and record our individual thoughts and highlights of the day. As we all took turns writing in the journal, we shared out loud that this was one of our best and most unforgettable days yet.

We all give Mike’s Bike Tours a 10 out of 10. It was worth every euro and then some… We’ll never forget the day, and all that came with it.

Next up: Switzerland!

Thanks for reading, and please stay tuned for more posts here as we head next to Lauterbrunnen and Zermatt, Switzerland, Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park, Pisa, Florence and Rome, and Lisbon and Lagos, Portugal.

If you’re interested, here are all of my previous blog posts about this Epic Europe Family Adventure so far:
• From Wyoming to the British Museum and Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew in 24 hours
• Big Ben, River Thames, Tower of London and Ice Cream
• Munich Day 1: Glockenspiel, Deutsches Museum, Englischer Garten and Beirgarten
•

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: bavaria, bavarian alps, biking, hohenschwangau castle, mikes bike tours, munich, neuschwanstein castle, swan lake

Munich Day 1: Glockenspiel, Deutsches Museum, Englischer Garten and Beirgarten!

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

Hi again. You’ll recall that my husband, Jerry, and I, and our three sons, Wolf, 16, Hayden, 14 and Finis, 9, are on a 29-day “Epic Europe Family Adventure.” Our itinerary includes London, Munich, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Portugal.

If you’re interested, my two previous trip reports about our time in London are here: From Wyoming to the British Museum and Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew in 24 hours and Big Ben, River Thames, Tower of London and Ice Cream.

We have been so excited to explore Munich, Germany. Jerry and I are each half German, so our three sons also are German, and we were all curious about exploring a part of our heritage. And there were numerous other reasons we wanted to explore Munich. The beer, of course. And the yummy food, including the plate-sized pretzels we heard about — the boys couldn’t wait for those! Also, the Bavarian Alps. And the Glockespiel. And so much more. We couldn’t wait to see it with our own eyes, and to really immerse ourselves in the capital of Bavaria.

While London represents a first in that it was our first destination where we put our feet on the ground in Europe, Munich marks a bunch of additional firsts, including the long train ride it would take for us to get here, being in a country where English isn’t the primary language, and we’d also try out our first ever AirBnB accommodations.

I could get used to riding trains. :)
I could get used to riding trains. 🙂

Our youngest son, Fin, enjoying the train ride.
Our youngest son, Fin, enjoying the train ride.

Riding trains, but the way, has in itself been a special experience for us. Until now, we have not rode on any major trains. It’s been a marvelous way for us to see the new sights and spend quality time together. The “Chunnel” – our ride from London to Paris – was particularly unforgettable. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast that included almond croissants hot out of the oven. (We are also loving the coffee here. They are smaller servings, but stronger, and steamed and served much hotter than we’re used to. Coffee lovers, Jerry and I are adjusting just fine!)

We arrived to Munich late, at about 9:30pm, and found our way to the Subway, and then found our way to our accommodations. Hatice, the owner, was wonderful. She had provided a lot of helpful information to me and answered many of my questions leading up to our time in Munich. She greeted us outside of the flat, and we quickly collapsed into a deep slumber.

The next morning, we had a free day, which we planned to fill with a 20-minute walk from our flat to Marienplatz, a central square in Munich that has been the central area since 1158.

n the middle of Marientplatz is the Marienpillar, adorned by the gold-plated statue of Mary, which has been at the center of the square since 1638.
n the middle of Marientplatz is the Marienpillar, adorned by the gold-plated statue of Mary, which has been at the center of the square since 1638.

Marienplatz is named after the Mariensäule, a Marian column (a religious monument depicting the Virgin Mary on the top) in its centre in 1638 to celebrate the end of Swedish occupation. Today the Marienplatz is dominated by the New City Hall (Neues Rathaus). In the Middle Ages, markets and tournaments were held in this city square. The famous and remarkable Glockenspiel in the tower of the new city hall was inspired by these tournaments, and draws millions of tourists a year.

On our first day in Munich, it was the Corpus Christi holiday, which falls on Thursday, 60 days after Easter Sunday.

When we arrived to Marienplatz, there was a Catholic church service going on, beautiful music and a procession. It was an expected and pleasant surprise for us to stumble into this.

We enjoyed the music and the energy of the Marienplatz, before starting our walk to the Deutsches Museum. The Deustches Museum is the world’s largest museum of science and technology with about 28,000 exhibited objects from 50 fields of science and technology.

We spent about 3 hours barely scratching the surface of the magnificent museum. We especially enjoyed the ships and marine exhibits, as well as the computers and musical instruments and air travel exhibits.

Jerry and the boys, walking to the Deutsches Museum.
Jerry and the boys, walking to the Deutsches Museum.
"The Maria." A sailing barge used for fishing. One if the last preserved sailing ever of this type. As early as 1882, the sea fisherman A. Bathed and his two sons perished when the Maria sunk in the Elbe estuary.
“The Maria.” A sailing barge used for fishing. One if the last preserved sailing ever of this type. As early as 1882, the sea fisherman A. Bathed and his two sons perished when the Maria sunk in the Elbe estuary.
My guys, in front of Wright Model A "Standard" Biplane, 1909. The Wright brothers designed & built the worlds first mass produced aeroplane. It was a result of systematic improvements made on their first successful powered arrow plane the "Flyer."
My guys, in front of Wright Model A “Standard” Biplane, 1909. The Wright brothers designed & built the worlds first mass produced aeroplane. It was a result of systematic improvements made on their first successful powered arrow plane the “Flyer.”
This hose-less diving suit, 1912, consisted of one bottle containing compressed oxygen and a second bottle filled with compressed air. Using a pressure regulating valve, a gas mix was produced which the diver breathed in.  Developed to tether diver to the ship. Divers could dive to 40 meters.
This hose-less diving suit, 1912, consisted of one bottle containing compressed oxygen and a second bottle filled with compressed air. Using a pressure regulating valve, a gas mix was produced which the diver breathed in.
Developed to tether diver to the ship. Divers could dive to 40 meters.
Violina-Phonoliszt , 1912.
Violina-Phonoliszt , 1912.
Turret clock. The public clock that gave the population a standard of time. The turret clock was A mechanical clock with weight drives & folkier began spreading throughout Europe in the 14th Century, forerunner of the public mechanical o'clock. The only public clock before this were sundials & large water clocks!
Turret clock. The public clock that gave the population a standard of time. The turret clock was A mechanical clock with weight drives & folkier began spreading throughout Europe in the 14th Century, forerunner of the public mechanical o’clock. The only public clock before this were sundials & large water clocks!

Next up: Hofbrauhaus, our first “biergarten” of the trip. Founded in 1589, Hofbrauhaus is the most popular beer garden in the world.

Jerry enjoyed a pint and I had a half pint and the boys had huge pretzels — one of the biggest things they looked forward to indulging in Germany, and there were not disappointed. We also had the yummy and unique Obazda.

Prost! We have officially arrived in Germany! :) Jerry and I enjoyed beers at Hofbrauhaus
Prost! We have officially arrived in Germany! 🙂 Jerry and I enjoyed beers at Hofbrauhaus
The boys were NOT disappointed in the plate-sized pretzels!
The boys were NOT disappointed in the plate-sized pretzels!

After that, we walked to Englischer Garten, a large a large public park in the center of Munich that is one of Europe’s largest urban public parks. There’s a wonderful path that follows alongside the Isar River. On the day we enjoyed the park, we watched as surfers took their turns surfing at one of the artificial streams flowing through the Englischer Garten. Essentially it’s a standing wave produced by a water pumping mechanism. Surfers line up along the bank taking turns entering the water with their boards. After a minute or so, successful surfers will voluntarily drop out returning to the end of the line allowing the next person in line an opportunity.

Fin dips in his toes in the water in Englischer Garten.
Fin dips in his toes in the water in Englischer Garten.

After walking throughout Englischer Garten, we walked back to Marienplatz so we could watch the 5pm Glockenspiel. As we waited, a band played some wonderful music. (see video)

The Glockenspiel happens every day at 11 a.m. (as well as 12 p.m. and 5 p.m. in summer). See my short video capture below.

The Glockenspiel “show” includes the reenactment of two stories from the 16th century. According to my sources, it consists of 43 bells and 32 life-sized figures. The top half of the Glockenspiel tells the story of the marriage of the local Duke Wilhelm V to Renata of Lorraine. In honor of the happy couple, there is a joust with life-sized knights on horseback representing Bavaria (in white and blue) and Lothringen (in red and white). Which knight do you think always wins? 🙂

This is then followed by the bottom half and second story: Schäfflertanz (the coopers’ dance). Wikipedia says this: According to myth, 1517 was a year of plague in Munich. The coopers are said to have danced through the streets to “bring fresh vitality to fearful dispositions.” The coopers remained loyal to the duke, and their dance came to symbolize perseverance and loyalty to authority through difficult times. By tradition, the dance is performed in Munich every seven years. This was described in 1700 as “an age-old custom”, but the current dance was defined only in 1871. The dance can be seen during Fasting (German Carnival): the next one is in 2019.

The whole things lasts about 15 minutes, and its ending occurs after a small golden rooster at the top of the Glockenspiel chirps quietly three times.

We loved watching the Glockenspiel, and it made our first day in Munich feel complete! By the way, my FitBit indicates we walked 29,000 steps today. It was only our first day in Munich, but I’d say we covered a lot of ground, and couldn’t wait for more exploring tomorrow.

Next up: Bike riding in the Bavarian Alps, and exploring Neuschwanstein Castle!

Thanks for reading, and please stay tuned for more posts here as we make continue exploring Munich, Germany, and then head to Lauterbrunnen and Zermatt, Switzerland, Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park, Pisa, Florence and Rome, and Lisbon and Lagos, Portugal.

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, Technology, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: beer, biergartens, deutsches museum, englischer garten, europe, germany, glockenspiel, hafbrauhaus, marienplatz, munich

Big Ben, River Thames, Tower of London, Beers at a 401-Year-Old Pub and Ice Cream

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

Hello again! As I mentioned in the last post, my husband, Jerry, and I and our three sons, Wolf, 16, Hayden, 14 and Finis, 9, are on a 28-day dream-come-true “Epic Europe Family Adventure.” Our itinerary includes London, Munich, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Portugal.

After a full first day in London, we slept in on Day 2. We enjoyed a breakfast provided by our hotel, Regency House. Given we were in England, Jerry and I did what any wise visitor would do and ordered the “Full English Breakfast.” Oh. My. God. Absolutely delicious. Bacon lovers, our sons each opted for the “bacon sandwich,” which was a piece of thick toast on which a huge heap of cottage bacon was piled. Epic to say the least.

Yum. "Full English Breakfast."
Yum. “Full English Breakfast.”

We were well rested and fueled for the day’s adventure, which would include a tour on the River Thames, and an afternoon at the Tower of London.

We set out to practice our public transportation skills by using our “oyster cards” and the Underground to get to the Westminster Pier. As soon as we walked up the stairs out of the subway station, we were surprised when we looked up and right in front of us were Big Ben, and the spectacular Westminster Abbey palace. We also saw the Eye of London as we found our way to the pier and onto our City Cruises boat.

Big Ben, at the north end of the Palace of Westminster in London.
Big Ben, at the north end of the Palace of Westminster in London.
With the boys in front of the Eye of London.
With the boys in front of the Eye of London.

The River Thames is a river that flows through southern England. It is the longest river that is entirely in England, and it is the second longest river in the United Kingdom. (the longest is the River Severn.) According to Wikipedia, the River Thames gets its name from three sources: the Thames Valley, a region of England around the river between Oxford and West London; the Thames Gateway; and the greatly overlapping Thames Estuary around the tidal Thames to the east of London and including the waterway itself.

Our river cruise’s guide was informational and also very funny, making our tour a wonderful experience. In a short ride, we learned all about London’s major attractions, including some of the most prominent buildings, old and new, the London Bridge(s), the Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, the Eye of London, Big Ben, Westminster Palace, and much more.

Jerry and the boys on our River Thames Tour.
Jerry and the boys on our River Thames Tour.

We disembarked the boat at the Tower Pier, and headed, eagerly, to start our exploration of the Tower of London. We were mainly excited about exploring the White Tower.

The boys and I in front of the White Tower.
The boys and I in front of the White Tower.

Located in the center of the Inner Ward, the White Tower – so named due to the white stone it was built from – was begun in 1078 and completed about 1100. It is four stories tall with walls up to 15 ft thick. The boys loved looking at the armour. By the way, King Henry VIII’s armour weighed up to 90 pounds at times! Can you imagine riding a horse, or going to battle with armour that weighed that much? According to a guide that we talked to at the exhibit, only one knight was known to ever die while in such armour, and it wasn’t from a weapon but rather from a heart attack, probably from being unfit and out of shape, and trying to move around in such heavy attire…

We enjoyed the Line of Kings, which displayed armour of all kinds. Here is King Henry VIII's armour. (At times, the king's armour weighed 90 pounds!)
We enjoyed the Line of Kings, which displayed armour of all kinds. Here is King Henry VIII’s armour (At times, the king’s armour weighed 90 pounds!)

The boys also loved seeing the assortment of ancient weaponry, including mace pistols and swords and spears and mortars and cannons. Some of the cannons reportedly weight 36,000 pounds.

MacePistols

Of course, the torture exhibit also intrigued us, particularly our sons. We all got a kick out of an ancient torture advice called the “Scold’s Bridle” Here’s the description for it: “The Scold’s Bridle was a popular local punishment throughout Europe, the scold’s bridle publicly humiliated women accused of gossiping. Locked around the woman’s head, the spring mounted bell alerted everyone to her approach.”

A "Scold's Bridle."
A “Scold’s Bridle.”

Next, we headed to The Jewel House to spy the Crown Jewels. I quickly embarrassed the family, and was embarrassed and humiliated when I tried to take a photo of a jeweled crown. I was so enamored by the jewels, I didn’t notice all of the signs saying photos are not allowed. Oops. So I didn’t get any photos, and of course I understand and support why photographs are not allowed. We were mesmerized by all of the jewels on display.

As we left the Jewel House, we watched the guards in front of the Jewel House. Guarding the Jewel House is serious business. The guards are not there for visitors’ display and delight, but rather to keep the order and seriously protect the jewels, and access to the jewels. Some rowdy, misbehaving youth were antagonizing one guard and we saw him come unglued, and rightly so. At any rate, seeing the guards was also thrilling for us. We are not accustomed to seeing such sights on the frontier of Wyoming!

A guard in front of the Jewel House, at the Tower of London.
A guard in front of the Jewel House, at the Tower of London.

We then left the Tower and enjoyed a walk over the beautiful Tower Bridge, and then along the walking path along the south bank of the River Thames.

In front of the Tower Bridge.
In front of the Tower Bridge.

We stopped to enjoy sights like Hay’s Galleria, which includes offices, restaurants, shops and flats. Next we marveled at the replica of Frances Drake’s sailing ship that circumnavigated the globe two times, and is set to do it a third time.

The boys, at Hay's Galleria.
The boys, at Hay’s Galleria.
Jerry and the boys at the Golden Hinde II, a replica of Sir Francis Drake's ship.
Jerry and the boys at the Golden Hinde II, a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship.

Jerry and I got particularly excited when we arrived at a place called the Anchor, a pub that is 401 years old – Europe’s oldest pub. We all sat and enjoyed cold ones – Jerry and I had pints of 1730 and London Glory, respectively, and the boys had Fantas. It was a wonderful day of immersing ourselves in some of London’s culture.

Jerry and I, in front of the Anchor Bankside, a pub in the London that is 401 years old!
Jerry and I, in front of the Anchor Bankside, a pub in the London that is 401 years old!

We met up with Antonia for dinner, and then finished with an ice cream treat. We are ice cream eating fanatics. Our family has enjoyed a tradition of eating ice cream every Friday after school for years now. Since we’re on vacation, it doesn’t matter what day it is, and we may even eat ice cream every day, and in Italy we hope to eat gelato on a daily basis. But I digress.

What I want to emphasize is we fell in love with Jude’s ice cream. The founder of the ice cream company wanted to create the world’s tastiest ice cream with milk from local cows. In his barn at home he set to work and soon the whole family joined in. In the winter of 2002 he carried the first tubs across the field to the village pub and Jude’s Ice Cream was born. The ice cream is named it after his wife.

Our youngest son, Fin, upon tasting the ice cream, remarked: “This is the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted in my whole life.” We all concurred.

Thanks for reading. Please stay tuned for more reports from our Epic Europe Family Adventure. Next up: Munich, Germany!

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: anchor pub, europe travel, family adventure, francis drake, golden hinde ii, judes ice cream, london, river thames, tower bridge, tower of london

From Wyoming to the British Museum and The Taming of the Shrew in London in 24 hours

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

My husband, Jerry, and I and our three sons, Wolf, 16, Hayden, 14 and Finis, 9, are just starting our “Epic Europe Family Adventure.”

This trip is a dream-come-true that we have been dreaming about, planning and saving for for some time. Our adventure is 28 days long and includes this itinerary: London, Munich, Germany (via Paris, France), Lauterbrunnen and Zermatt, Switzerland, Italy’s Moneglia and Cinque Terre, Pisa, Florence and Rome, and then Portugal.

First, we drove from our home in Lander, Wyoming, to Denver, CO., where we made a quick visit with my Grandma, and then we visited Jerry’s brother, Jamie, who dropped us off at the airport for our direct flight to London.

At the Denver airport. Europe or Bust!
At the Denver airport. Europe or Bust!

The flight was an 8-hour flight that took off at 7:45pm. After in the air, we let the boys watch one movie, then we all closed our eyes ’till we landed in London, which given the 7-hour jump ahead in time, meant we had feet on the ground in Europe at 11:30am on Monday, May 23.

Once in London, we were greeted by my friend, Antonia, whom I met on my Brooks Range Alaska NOLS course in 2011. Antonia has visited us in Lander, WY for the famous 4th of July, during her Yellowstone Park visits. Now, we would see her on her turf! (She’s from Germany, but teaches Sanskrit at a private school in London.)

It was so great to see Antonia, who led us to the Underground, and traveled to a station near our hotel on Gower Street. We loved that our room number was “1.” How perfect for the start of our adventure. We also loved the quaint comfort of our hotel room, which was exactly one room with 5 beds in it – one for each of us. We found this to be charming in its practicality.

Our room number for our first hotel on the trip: 1.

Our room number for our first hotel on the trip: 1.

Tired from our hours of travel, which included our 5-hour drive from Lander, WY to Denver, CO, and then 8-hour international flight during the night, and add to that we were suddenly on a clock that was 7 hours ahead of our usual (US Mountain Standard Time) schedule, we were not exactly full of energy. So we all relaxed in our hotel room for a couple of hours and visited with Antonia, before venturing to the British Museum.

We intentionally planned a mellow first day in London because we knew we’d be tired, and we planned to not do what we felt like, which was collapse on the hotel beds for a nap. (Our friends and family who have traveled to Europe advised against taking a nap, suggesting we should instead resist napping and try to fall into step with the local time)

We planned to explore at a lazy pace a small portion of the British Museum, which was just a couple of blocks from our hotel, and then get some dinner at a pub, before watching The Taming of the Shrew, at the historic outdoor Globe Theatre.

Posing with our friend, Antonia, in the British Museum.
Posing with our friend, Antonia, in the British Museum.

The British Museum, which offers free admission, was a treat, and that is an understatement! Rick Steves calls it the “Chronicle of Western Civilization,” and his description is apt. There is no way we could adequately review all the museum has to offer, so we focused on just a few areas. We explored much of the museum, but we especially enjoyed seeing the Elgin Marbles, the original Rosetta Stone, and the many Egyptian statues and artifacts.

The Elgin Marbles, known to the world as the Parthenon Marbles, are a collection of Classical Greek marble sculptures (made by the citizens of Athens under the supervision of the renowned architect and sculptor Phidias and his assistants), inscriptions, and architectural pieces that were originally part of the temple of the Parthenon and other buildings on the Acropolis of Athens. Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin obtained in 1801 a controversial permit from the Sublime Porte, which then ruled Greece.

The boys, admiring some of the Elgin Marbles, in the British Museum.
The boys, admiring some of the Elgin Marbles, in the British Museum.
 Part of the Elgin Marbles, this naked man reclines on a rock, cushioned by the skin of a feline animal. He is probably Dionysos, god of wine. (His missing right hand perhaps held a cup of wine?)

Part of the Elgin Marbles, this naked man reclines on a rock, cushioned by the skin of a feline animal. He is probably Dionysos, god of wine. (His missing right hand perhaps held a cup of wine?)
Some of the panels that are part of the Elgin Marbles.
Some of the panels that are part of the Elgin Marbles.
Part of the Elgin Marbles, this is the head of a horse from the chair of the moon-goddess, Selene.
Part of the Elgin Marbles, this is the head of a horse from the chair of the moon-goddess, Selene.

Well, I think if all we had time for were the Elgin Marbles, that would have been pretty astounding in itself. The boys and I really loved looking at all of them, and reading and learning about them. It’s something else to imagine the work, the skill and craftsmanship, and the commitment required to carve such beautiful sculptures from stone, and to see them some 2,500 years later.

Well, I think if all we had time for were the Elgin Marbles, that would have been pretty astounding in itself. The boys and I really loved looking at all of them, and reading and learning about them. It’s something else to imagine the work, the skill and craftsmanship, and the commitment required to carve such beautiful sculptures from stone.

Next up was the original, 5,000-year-old Rosetta Stone. The Rosetta Stone holds the key to understanding Egyptian hieroglyphs and is a script made up of small pictures that was used originally in ancient Egypt for religious texts.

The Rosetta Stone holds the key to understanding Egyptian hieroglyphs—a script made up of small pictures that was used originally in ancient Egypt for religious texts.
The Rosetta Stone holds the key to understanding Egyptian hieroglyphs—a script made up of small pictures that was used originally in ancient Egypt for religious texts.

The boys especially loved Room 4, the Egyptian sculptures. There are many. In fact, the British Museum holds the largest collection of Egyptian objects that are outside of Egypt.

We first explored mummies, which includes actual corpses and displays of the history, and process of of mummifying. Especially fascinating is the 5,000-year-old sand-dried mummy.

The mummy exhibits are extraordinary.
The mummy exhibits are extraordinary.

The statue of King Ramesses II was carved from a single block of stone, and is the upper part of a colossal seated statue. The sculpture weight 20 tons (40,000 pounds!), and was transported on sleds over land and In a purpose-built boat down the Nile.

The statue of King Ramesses II is the upper part of a colossal seated statue.
The statue of King Ramesses II is the upper part of a colossal seated statue.
A sarcophagus is a box-like funeral receptacle for a corpse, most commonly carved in stone, and displayed above ground, though it may also be buried.
A sarcophagus is a box-like funeral receptacle for a corpse, most commonly carved in stone, and displayed above ground, though it may also be buried.

After the British Museum, we found a British pub, where Jerry, Antonia and I enjoyed a cold one, and we all ate a pretty tasty pub meal.

Fed and feeling recharged, we caught the Underground and then walked to the historic Globe Theater. Seeing The Taming of the Shrew was a treat for me that the family agreed to. I was full of anticipation to see the Shakespeare play for the first time, and to see it in Shakespeare’s original venue. The Globe is an oak-and-thatch replica of the original Elizabethan theatre, showing Shakespeare plays in the open air.

Riding the Underground with my friend Antonia, who showed us the ropes.
Riding the Underground with my friend Antonia, who showed us the ropes.

The play was epic! Jerry and the boys were generous in agreeing to include the play on our itinerary, since I was the only one enthused about it. But, to my pleasant surprise, the boys loved it. It woke them up, and I even caught Fin, our 9-year-old, laughing out loud throughout the play. The cast was fantastic, and the setting was unbeatable, making the entire experience of watching the play a 10 out of 10. I highly recommend attending a Shakespeare play in the open air, outdoor Globe Theater.

We loved watching The Taming of the Shrew in the historic, open air Globe Theatre.
We loved watching The Taming of the Shrew in the historic, open air Globe Theatre.

We were exhilarated by the play, especially the second act, which was even more spectacular than the first. As we made out way out of the theater and walked to the Underground station, we stopped to take in a beautiful reflection of the awe-inspiring St. Paul’s Cathedral in the River Thames. We then walked across a bridge and right up to the Cathedral before we found our transport.

According to Wikipedia, St Paul’s Cathedral, London, is an Anglican cathedral, the seat of the Bishop of London, and the mother church of the Diocese of London. It sits on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City of London. Its dedication to Paul the Apostle dates back to the original church on this site, founded in AD 604.

St. Paul's Cathedral, reflected in the River Thames, in London.
St. Paul’s Cathedral, reflected in the River Thames, in London.
Hayden, in front of St. Paul's Cathedral, in London.
Hayden, in front of St. Paul’s Cathedral, in London.

The present church, dating from the late 17th century, was designed in the English Baroque style by Sir Christopher Wren. The cathedral is one of the most famous and most recognizable sights of London. Its dome, framed by the spires of Wren’s City churches, dominated the skyline for 300 years. At 365 feet high, it was the tallest building in London from 1710 to 1962. The dome is among the highest in the world. St Paul’s is the second largest church building in the United Kingdom, second only to Liverpool Cathedral.

We made it back to the hotel at around 11:30pm and pretty much collapsed into immediate sleep. If our first day and evening’s events were any indication, this dream-come-true, 28-day adventure in Europe was going to be nothing short of epic…

Thanks for reading, and please stay tuned for more posts here as we make our way through Munich, Germany, Lauterbrunnen and Zermatt, Switzerland, Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park, Pisa, Florence and Rome, and Lisbon and Lagos, Portugal.

(See London Day 2 blog post)

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: epic adventure, europe, family adventure, family travel, london

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About Shelli

Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live on the frontier in Lander, Wyoming. I’m a wife, a mother, an entrepreneur, certified life/leadership coach, wellness coach, keynote presenter and inspired speaker, leadership development facilitator, personal development strategist, writer and adventure guide. This blog mostly includes stories about adventures and travel, but other passions are reading/books, technology, fitness, nutrition, and national parks, so you’ll find a wide range of articles here. I am founder of Yellowstone Journal and YellowstonePark.com, and NationalParkTrips.com, which was my first business. My current company, Epic Life Inc., is in its 7th year, and going gangbusters. If you’re interested in learning more about my current work, I hope you’ll jump over there and learn more about that. I have a more personal blog, more directly related to life and living and leadership, at YourEpicLife.com/blog. I’d love it if you’d also check out that collection of my writings. Thank you for stopping by! Finally, if you’d like to connect with me directly, please email me if you’d like to connect.

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