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Travel & Tourism

Sometimes You Can’t Get the Girl out of the Frontier

October 18, 2009 by Shelli

On a hike in my backyard, Wyoming's Wind River Range.
On a hike in my backyard, Wyoming's Wind River Range.

I travel quite a bit to attend and present at various tourism-related conferences throughout the country.

The headline for this comes from a saying I like to use in my tourism conference presentation introductions: “You can take the frontier out of the girl but (often) you can’t take the girl out of the frontier.”

I love living in Wyoming. Wyoming is largely considered frontier. In fact, the U. S. Census Bureau classifies much of our state as not even rural, instead calling it “frontier.”

We rank 50th out of 50 states for population. Only about 530,000 people are lucky enough to call Wyoming home.

Our state is full of big, wide open, seemingly empty spaces. When we think about population density, there are only 5 people per square mile here. You could say it’s a little lonely here.

This is probably the most common scene experienced by people traveling in a car in Wyoming. (Photo by Florian Herrmann)
This is probably the most common scene experienced by people traveling in a car in Wyoming. (Photo by Florian Herrmann)

There are more animals than people here. For example, there are approximately 600,000 pronghorn (antelope). When you add in all the wild animals, we humans are outnumbered about 2-to-1. When you add in farm and ranch animals, we’re outnumbered 3-to-1. So Wyoming is not only a lonely place, it’s a wild place.

Typical scene in towns like Jeffrey City. (Photo by Florian Herrmann)
Typical scene in towns like Jeffrey City. (Photo by Florian Herrmann)

Frontier means “a region at the edge of a settled area.” Frederick Jackson Turner, an American historian in the early 20th Century, is best known for his essay called “the significance of the frontier,” which among other things, said that “when pioneers moved into the frontier zone they were changed significantly by the encounter.” In 1893, Turner argued that unlimited free land offered the psychological sense of unlimited opportunity, which in turn had many consequences, such as optimism and future orientation.

I love this because I like to think it describes most of the people I know who live in Wyoming. We’re an optimistic bunch and I think it’s largely because we live in a landscape that provides a wide variety of unhindered and striking views, whether we’re looking at snow-covered, glaciated granite mountains, valleys, meadows, buttes, sagebrush-covered hills, a desert, a prairie, or a herd of pronghorn.

I view my parents’ decision to move us from Iowa to Wyoming when I was just 3 years old as one of the greatest gifts they’ve given me. I love Wyoming. So much so that after leaving to college and living/working in other states for eight years, my husband and I chose to return to Wyoming in 1995, where we’ve been ever since and where we hope to always remain.

But for all its wonderful aspects, getting out of the frontier can be difficult. Recently, I was trying to fly out of Wyoming for a trip to the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State, where I was invited to be a keynote presenter at a tourism conference. I had planned my departure so that I would have a couple of days to explore the region before the conference.

I’m the mother of three young boys, so I don’t like to travel very often and not for very long periods of time when I do. I booked the 6 am flight out of Riverton to make connection in Denver, to save me the 5.5 hours it takes to drive to Denver, or the 4.5 hours it takes to drive to Salt Lake City.

Me, at a lake in our Wind River Range, during a dreamier occasion.
Me, at a lake in our Wind River Range, during a dreamier occasion.

So Monday, Oct. 12, I arrive at Riverton airport at 5 a. m. First thing I notice is there’s no plane waiting outside. I’ve traveled enough to know this is not good news. Typically the plane rests in Riverton after carting passengers from Denver on the evening flight into Riverton. Still, I check in and nothing is said about the flight not being on schedule. However, I was asked if I’d be willing to take travel credits in exchange for a later flight because the flight had been “downgraded from 24 to 18 passengers.”

I say, no, I can’t do that. This is a big trip, one that I planned 3 months ago, and besides, I had to make it to a keynote presentation I was giving at a conference.

Typically for the 6 am flight, we go through security around 5:30 am. But it’s now 6:15 am and there’s still no plane there and the security gates are closed and unmanned. There are about 20 of us just sitting or wandering around.

By 6:30 a.m., I’m anxious. My connection in Denver to fly to Seattle is tight. I had scheduled a flight that allowed me about one hour in Denver. At this point, my flight in Denver is to be boarding in about an hour and a half. This Riverton-to-Denver flight, if I ever get on it, is about 1 hour and 15 minutes. It’s glaringly obvious my trip is off to an awful start, probably an altogether non-starter.

The Riverton Airport. It's a really nice airport with a local Wyoming touch.
The Riverton Airport. It's a really nice airport with a local Wyoming touch.

I go to the ticketing counter and ask, “So are we going to be flying out soon? Is there a plane coming?” To which the friendly attendant says “I don’t know. We don’t have any information right now.”

At this point I size up my surroundings and come to a realization. You can tell the locals from the visitors. The visitors are the ones who act like, and believe, they’re going somewhere this morning.

The locals, on the other hand, are reading books like “When Bad Things Happen to Good People.” Some of them have even kept their motors running in the parking lot on this 20-degree morning. After chit chatting a little, I learn from a couple of locals with tickets for this morning’s early flight who fly often that “this flight only goes about 50% of the time.” Hmmm. This stinks, I think to myself.

I also see Father Bob Cook, President of Wyoming Catholic College, based in my town of Lander. I go up to him, and I ask how he’s doing. We both decide to pray to St. Jude, “the patron saint of hopeless causes” – or, the “Miraculous Saint.”

Turns out there are no later flights that will put me in Denver in time to make a connecting flight to Seattle that has availability. So, I take my chances and move my itinerary to the same time tomorrow. Things must work out, as my conference is the day after and I have to be there. I go home and will try this all over again, starting with another wakeup call tomorrow at 3:15 am. Grrr.

Many Wyoming people have horror stories that probably are more spectacular than my example here. For instance, one time two of my colleagues got out of Denver very, very late and behind schedule on their flight into Riverton following a conference. They said when the plane finally did land in Riverton, it was 1 am and the doors were locked and no one was working at the Riverton airport! Someone had to be called and awakened to come and open up the airport for the late passengers.

Awesome. 24 hours later, this sight is the first good indicator my chances of getting out of Wyoming are looking good.
Awesome. 24 hours later, this sight is the first good indicator my chances of getting out of Wyoming are looking good.

But, back to my story. Thankfully, all worked out beautifully for me to get out of the frontier the next day. But, as Rita Faruki, from The Nature Conservancy, so aptly stated, she felt like Bill Murray in the movie, Groundhog Day, doomed to repeat the day over again. (I didn’t even unload my suitcase from my car into the house, and I wore the same outfit to the airport when I tried again, successfully, to fly out Tuesday.)

I should mention that I don’t have a problem flying on small planes. In fact, I prefer them to the big jets. I just wish they’d show up more often.

Also, even if they only show up 50% of the time, my experience is that they’ve gotten me to my destination safely 100% of the time.

And, often I’m flying with friends or neighbors – there is always at least someone I know on my flight. Heck, I even went to school with one of the pilots, who is so much younger than my 41 years that it seems impossible he can be flying jets. (Where’s his “Bob the Builder” backpack, I think, and then remember he’s probably a good 38 years old by now).

Plus, when we’re taxiing out to the runway in Riverton, we’re ALWAYS “#1 for departure,” which is also pretty cool.

And probably the biggest thing I’ll add is it truly is a miracle that I can live out on the frontier, literally, and yet I have scheduled (albeit not super reliable) air service just 25 miles away. When things go right, I can leave Lander, WY, in the morning and be getting my toes wet in the ocean by early afternoon.

It's great to not have people stuffed in next to me on either side. (Photo taken by Rev. Bob Cook)
It's great to not have people stuffed in next to me on either side. (Photo taken by Rev. Bob Cook)

Would I trade living on the frontier of Wyoming for a city that has a big airport and provides reliable flights? Nope. Not a chance.

If this is the cost of living on the frontier, I’ll gladly pay it.

Thanks to my dad, Bill Sniffin, and Ernie Over, who provided some of the information about Wyoming being classified as a frontier and how we’re so outnumbered by animals here. These are two of Wyoming’s biggest boosters and they love Wyoming as much as I do.

Filed Under: Frontier Life, Technology, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: airlines, airport, delay, frontier, transportation, travel, wyoming

Enamored by the Olympic Peninsula

October 17, 2009 by Shelli

Click here for all posts related to National Park travel on this blog.

RELATED POSTS: OLYMPIC PENINSULA OR BUST and OLYMPIC PENINSULA DAY 1.

I only had 1 full free day to explore a big, diverse region.
I only had 1 full free day to explore a big, diverse region.
Wow. I’m coming off 2.5 days in Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula region. I had a half of a day on Tuesday to explore, then was in a conference all day Wednesday, where I was a keynote presenter for the Olympic Peninsula Tourism Summit, then had all day Thursday to explore some more.

This was my first time to the region and I was eager to see as much as I could of this country.

I ate a mountain of all the best seafood and native, gourmet food harvested and made with care by the best chefs throughout the Olympic Peninsula. I’m talking culinary delights to the maximum – the kind that shock your tastebuds.

I ate about 16 things I have never had before, including Dungeness Crab and Oyster mushroom Agnolotti with Mascarpone cheese finished with a Tarragon Beurre Blanc, locally harvested Mediterranean mussels with a mirepoix of locally-grown celery, carrots and onions, Pernod and organic cream, local manila clams steamed in white wine with herbs and garlic, Roosevelt Elk Berry Soup.

Eating mussels.
Eating mussels.

I ate fresh local salmon, caught and prepared according to tribal custom, Northwest Dungeness crab cakes with roasted pepper coulis, basil aioli and chive oil, and locally foraged Chanterelle mushroom and truffle risotto, Roasted Ozette potatoes and Chanterelle mushrooms, an assortment of local rustic breads, and for dessert, local Blackberry Pavlovas with Mt. Townsend Fromage Blanc Parsnips ‘Foster’ Upside Down Cakes.

Here’s a VIDEO for a sampling of what I’m talking about when I say culinary delights and tastebud-shocking:

I explored Olympic National Park for the first time. Olympic National Park is one of only 20 World Heritage Sites in the U. S. and now I know why it is among them. Based on my hundreds of experiences in the world’s first national park, Yellowstone, and my many other experiences in other national parks of the West, I feel strongly that national parks provide an unmatched inspiring and restorative experience for their visitors.


I get a unique feeling, that is indescribable other than to say I feel very deeply inspired and moved whenever I’m in a national park. While in Olympic National Park –– including Hurricane Ridge, in the Hoh Rain Forest, Lake Crescent, and along the Pacific coast beaches – I felt that feeling. As a result, Olympic National Park now has a special place in my heart and I can’t wait to take my husband and sons there.

Rialto Beach, along the Pacific Ocean, and part of Olympic National Park.
Rialto Beach, along the Pacific Ocean, and part of Olympic National Park.

Fueling up for the 10 miles of running/hiking I would do in Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park.
Fueling up for the 10 miles of running/hiking I would do in Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park.

Another first for me was I saw a salmon jumping up a waterfall, at Salmon Cascades. Here’s a clip:

I met probably 150 people during my short stay. These included the many people I met at the Tourism Summit, who are business owners, operators, marketing people, Chamber and Visitor Bureau directors, and others, who live throughout, and love, the Olympic Peninsula region, but also many people along my travels, on the planes and jets, in the airports, and throughout the Olympic Peninsula region as I was exploring and driving my rental car from place to place. Everyone I met was super.

Thanks to Mary Brelsford, of the Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau, my trip was a fantastic one.
Thanks to Mary Brelsford, of the Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau, my trip was a fantastic one.

I visited the “Twilight Zone” – aka Forks, WA, and the nearby rain forests that were the setting for Bella, Edward, and others in the movie and book, Twilight.
With Bella's truck, of Twilight fame, in Forks, WA.
With Bella's truck, of Twilight fame, in Forks, WA.

Here’s a video clip of my stop in “the Twilight Zone” of Forks, WA, and my exploring in the Hoh Rain Forest:

You could say I maximized by 1.5 days of free time there. To prevent me from writing a 3,000-word novel about my short trip, I’m providing a summary list of all I did in my short time on the spectacular Olympic Peninsula.

Here’s what I did:
I saw Hurricane Ridge and the Olympic Mountains in Olympic National Park.
I saw the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
I went to Ediz Hook.
I explored downtown Port Angeles.
I ate at Bella Italia, the setting for Bella and Edward’s first date in the first Twilight book.
I walked along the beach in a deluge of a rain storm.
I ate clams.
I ate Dungeness Crab cakes.
I ate Roosevelt Elk & Berry soup.
I saw a salmon jumping a waterfall at Salmon Cascades.
I ate wild salmon.
I dipped my feet in the Pacific Ocean as I visited Rialto Beach, in Olympic National Park.
I ate local Ozette potatoes.
I ate wild Raspberry Pavlovas.
I hiked and ran about 9 miles of trails in the Hoh Rain Forest, in Olympic National Park.
I made a quick trip to Port Townsend, where I admired the Victorian seaport.
I visited Fort Worden State Park, where Officer and a Gentleman was filmed.
I was photographed next to Bella’s red truck from the book & movie, Twilight.
I went to Bella’s house (the Swan House) in Forks, WA.
I went on many scenic drives.
I went to Lake Crescent.
I met lots of passionate local people, business owners, tourism promoters, marketing folks and chefs who live in, and operate, in the Olympic Peninsula.
I saw the Hood Canal.
I hiked to Tom Fall in the Hoh Rain Forest.
I walked along and skipped a few rocks in the Hoh River.
I went to Be Dazzled by Twilight to buy Twilight-related souvenirs.
I made a keynote presentation at a tourism conference.
I went to Blyn, WA and spent time in the beautiful Tribal Center.
I ate (too much) local chocolate.
I got a dirty chai in Forks, WA.
I looked for vampires in the woods behind the Forks, WA, visitor center.
I saw Discovery Bay.
I ate at delicious dinner at the historic Lake Crescent Lodge, in Olympic National Park.
I ate pie made of local berries, accompanied by ice cream made with local lavender.
I had an AWESOME time.

A special thanks to Mary Brelsford, of the Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau, the Red Lion Hotel in Port Angeles, and Mike Gurling of the Forks, WA, Visitor Center for extra help that made my stay more memorable and wonderful.

Filed Under: National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: forks, hoh rain forest, olympic peninsula, olympics national park, rialto beach, Twilight, washington state

Olympic Peninsula Day 1 Delivers

October 14, 2009 by Shelli

Wow! Landed in Port Angeles, WA, earlier today. Talk about a phenomenal region. The Olympic Peninsula is home to mountains, forests and ocean, not to mention culture, Twilight fame and a culinary hot spot.

Landed in early afternoon and not wanting to waste any time, headed for Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park. It was my first time and long overdue. I have wanted to experience Olympic National Park for some time.

It was a very rainy day so Hurricane Ridge was socked in and I donned rain gear, which was a unique and exhilarating experience for this Wyoming girl, who enjoys 325 days of sunshine and only 13 inches of rain in year. (To be fair, my Wyoming hometown receives as much snow as the Olympic Peninsula does rain) : >

Still, the sun peeked through every now and again, and when it did I was rewarded with stellar views. I could look down and see the ocean. I could see abundant, healthy forests. Trees upon trees, all healthy, unlike the pine beetle-killed, burgundy-colored forests that are becoming all too common out West.

And peaks. There are tall mountains here! Some even had a dusting of snow on them this afternoon. The views were dramatic. Often clouds hung low, shrouding the high points of the mountains.

There was a variety of old growth broad leaf trees, as well as healthy pines.

After returning from the national park, I headed to Bella Italia, a local restaurant owned by Neil Conklin. This wonderful restaurant that offers fresh and local Italian food was the setting for Edward and Bella’s first date in the first Twilight book. I enjoyed a great meal, good wine and wonderful atmosphere. It is a quaint, beautiful restaurant. A real treat. Plus, I could now tell our two oldest sons I ate where Bella and Edward ate, which gets me extra points when I get home.

After dinner, I headed to Ediz Hook to catch some more unique and different views of the region before nightfall came. The views were incredible!

My first afternoon was great. I can’t wait to explore this region and the various attractions and destinations during my next two days here.

So far, I’m hooked. No doubt I am the target market for the Olympic Peninsula. It appears to have all that I love – natural wonders in all directions, abundant outdoor recreation, small town atmosphere, warm and friendly people, and access to fantastic food.

A great thanks to Mary Brelsford of the Olympic Peninsula Tourism Board for providing such great trip planning assistance and hospitality so far.

See and download the full gallery on posterous

Posted via email from HaveMediaWillTravel

Filed Under: National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: olympic peninsula, olympics national park, washington state

Olympic Peninsula or Bust!

October 12, 2009 by Shelli

Today I arrived to Washington’s Olympic Peninsula region. After flying in two puddle jumpers and one big airplane I find myself in beautiful new country.

Leaving my snowy town of Lander, WY, for the Olympic Peninsula this morning.
Leaving my snowy town of Lander, WY, for the Olympic Peninsula this morning.

I’m making the trip to be a keynote presenter at the Olympic Peninsula Tourism Summit that is Wed., Oct. 14.

During my time here, I will explore much of Olympic National Park, including Hurricane Ridge, Lake Crescent, Hoh Hoh Rain Forest and Third Beach. I will also spend some time in Forks, WA, the famed setting for the first of the Twilight book series.

The Olympic Peninsula receives something like 150 inches of rain per year. We get the same amount of… snow. My home state of Wyoming enjoys 325 days of sunshine every year, and receives only a trace of rain, about 13 inches of rain per year. I’ve got rain gear, which I’ve never had the opportunity to wear, packed.

One of the most interesting things about my trip is the culinary experience I will find myself immersed in.

The Tourism Summit this year is focusing on niche marketing and how social media can enhance business and economic opportunities. The Olympic Peninsula Loop Culinary Tourism Association will be making its debut at the conference. To introduce and highlight Olympic Coastal Cuisine, the luncheon will be presented by 11 local chefs who will showcase foods that are grown, foraged, caught and made on the Olympic Peninsula.

Following is what this Wyoming steak-and-potatoes-country-girl will be eating on Wednesday:

APPETIZERS
Dungeness Crab and Oyster mushroom Agnolotti with Mascarpone cheese finished with a Tarragon Beurre Blanc, by Chef Patrick Norris of Lake Quinault Lodge

Locally harvested Mediterranean mussels with a mirepoix of locally-grown celery, carrots and onions, Pernod and organic cream, by Chef Gabriel Schuenemann of Sequim’s Alderwood Bistro

Classic local manila clams steamed in white wine with herbs and garlic, by Chef Tim Tocatlian of Port Townsend’s T’s Restaurant

SOUP COURSE
Roosevelt Elk Berry Soup, by Chef and Association Vice President Jess Owen of the Ocean Crest Resort in Moclips

MAIN COURSE
Fresh local salmon, caught and prepared according to tribal custom, will be provided by the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe and L Bar L Catering

Northwest Dungeness crab cakes with roasted pepper coulis, basil aioli and chive oil, and locally foraged Chanterelle mushroom and truffle risotto (Both dishes by Chef Dan Ratigan of the Resort at Port Ludlow)

Roasted Ozette potatoes and Chanterelle mushrooms, by Port Angeles’ Bella Italia

Port Townsend’s Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery will provide a selection of rustic breads.

DESSERT
Local Blackberry Pavlovas with Mt. Townsend Fromage Blanc Parsnips ‘Foster’ Upside Down Cakes

Wow. This small town girl who hails from the frontier of Wyoming –- beef country — is about to have her taste buds shocked and delighted. I can’t wait.

Filed Under: National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: olympic peninsula, olympics national park, Twilight, washington state

Black Canyon of the Gunnison: Magnificent

October 9, 2009 by Shelli

Jerry, the boys and I are right now spending time in Montrose, Colorado, and having a great time. We are here visiting my sister, Alicia, her husband, Denny, and their awesome children, Mallory, Mae and Royal.
BlackCanyon-Shelli
Montrose, home to about 15,000 people, is a great mountain town. Located at 5,800 feet elevation, it’s bigger than the small town of Lander, WY that we live in, but not quite a city.

If you’re into the outdoors and natural beauty, you’ll agree with me that Montrose’s greatest asset is its location. We see why this is. It’s the “hub” that connects the popular mountain town of Telluride, about an hour away, Ouray, a half-hour away, and Gunnison an hour away, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Ridgeway State Park, and other notable destinations. Also in the greater Montrose region are the Gunnison, San Juan, Uncompahgre, and Rio Grande national forests.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, near Montrose, CO.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, near Montrose, CO.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park has been on our list of places we want to experience for some time. So this morning we headed out with Alicia and Denny and our kids.

As the park’s name suggests, the Gunnison River and the canyon it carves, is the star of the national park. The national park contains 12 of the river’s 48-mile-long canyon of the Gunnison River.

The Gunnison River descends 43 feet per mile through the canyon, making it one of the steepest mountain descents for a river in all of North America. (Wikipedia: By comparison, the Colorado River drops an average of 7.5 feet as it flows through the Grand Canyon.) In fact, the the most significant descent of the Gunnison River occurs in the park at Chasm View dropping 240 feet per mile!

My husband, Jerry, me, our three sons, and my sister, Alicia, at Black Canyon.
My husband, Jerry, me, our three sons, and my sister, Alicia, at Black Canyon.

The Black Canyon is so named because it is so steep that it’s difficult for sunshine to reach into the canyon, resulting in a dark, “black” canyon that is often in a shadow. The narrowest section of the canyon is only 40 feet across.

The extreme depth of the Black Canyon is a result of several geologic processes acting together. The Gunnison River is primarily responsible for carving the canyon, though many other geologic events combined to help form the canyon as it is today. According to the National Park Service’s Black Canyon website, no other canyon in North America combines the narrow opening, sheer walls, and startling depths offered by the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

I love canyons and have stood at the edge of some spectacular ones, including the Grand Canyon, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Black Canyon is an astounding a sight to behold.

It took my breath away.

Here’s a video:

The highlight of our trip to Montrose, CO., of course, has been spending time with Alicia, Denny and their children. We went to their oldest daughter, niece Mallory’s, last high school softball game, and celebrated Mallory’s 18th birthday. Mae, Mallory’s 16-year-old sister, also had a softball game, and my nephew, Royal, had a football game. It’s been a great time!

Filed Under: National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: Black canyon of the gunnison, colorado, montrose, national park

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About Shelli

Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live on the frontier in Lander, Wyoming. I’m a wife, a mother, an entrepreneur, certified life/leadership coach, wellness coach, keynote presenter and inspired speaker, leadership development facilitator, personal development strategist, writer and adventure guide. This blog mostly includes stories about adventures and travel, but other passions are reading/books, technology, fitness, nutrition, and national parks, so you’ll find a wide range of articles here. I am founder of Yellowstone Journal and YellowstonePark.com, and NationalParkTrips.com, which was my first business. My current company, Epic Life Inc., is in its 7th year, and going gangbusters. If you’re interested in learning more about my current work, I hope you’ll jump over there and learn more about that. I have a more personal blog, more directly related to life and living and leadership, at YourEpicLife.com/blog. I’d love it if you’d also check out that collection of my writings. Thank you for stopping by! Finally, if you’d like to connect with me directly, please email me if you’d like to connect.

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