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Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Epic Hiking and Exploring in Landmannalaugar

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

Access to Landmannalaugar is on rough, dirt roads which require a 4×4 vehicle.

Apparently, Iceland’s most famous musician, Björk, used to walk across Iceland’s tundra singing at the top of her lungs. In an article in The Guardian, Björk says, “I used to walk a lot on my own and sing at the top of my lungs. I think a lot of Icelandic people do this. You don’t go to church or a psychotherapist–you go for a walk and feel better.”

I’m no singer but experiencing Iceland’s Landmannalaugar region had me wanting to sing from the top of my lungs.

It wasn’t long after we booked our flights to Iceland and we had started our trip planning that I became enthralled about an area called Landmannalaugar.

I was completely captivated by the area after seeing photos of mountains that didn’t even look real. The photos and reports promised rainbow-colored hills and mountains, dotted with plumes of smoke and steam rising from the area’s fumaroles.

We had an extraordinary day and epic hike in Landmannalaugar. My family and I have hiked in some amazing places all over the U.S. and world. In other words, my list of unforgettable hiking experiences in long. I don’t like to compare hikes because the regions of the hikes are often so different that I love them for their individual characteristics. But that said, Landmannalaugar ranks way up high on my list of favorite unforgettable hiking experiences. I can’t recommend it enough!

As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. For a more lengthy and informational report about the hikes we did in Landmannalaugar, see this separate blog post I wrote about the trails and hikes we did. Otherwise, I just want to leave you with photos and videos of our adventure in Landmannalaugar. They are so much more inspiring than anything I could write!

 

Hiking through Landmannalaugar’s lava fields

 

Video of us hiking and linking Brennesteinsalda with the ascent of Blahnjukur

Summitting Landmannalaugar’s Blahnjukur Volcano

Descending Blahnjukur with my boys.

Descending Landmannalaugar’s Blahnjukur Volcano

Do you see the circle pattern at right? These rings are called Nornabaugar (which means Witch’s rings). They are formed by a mushroom trying to grow in Iceland’s’ sensitive highland regions. Without ever managing fully to grow, the mushroom affects the roots of the moss under which it grows.

The beautiful Graenigil Canyon.
The boys, leading us down the last part of our hike in Landmannalaugar, in Graenigil Canyon.

The boys, after soaking their tired hiking legs in Landmannalaugar’s geothermal waters.
Fin, at the summit of Blahnukur.
Hayden on Blahnukur’s summit.
Wolf, on Blahnukur’s summit.
Jerry, my best half.

Video of Driving to Landmannalaugar on Road F208:

 

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and  Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Secret Solstice Music Festival!

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: blahnjukur, brennesteinsalda, iceland, iceland epic adventure, iceland highlands, iceland hiking, iceland volcano, landmannalaugar

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Gullfoss, Þingvellir National Park, Reykjavik and the Secret Solstice Music Festival

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

Map of our Part 6 of our Iceland itinerary.

We left the Highlands of Iceland today and headed for Reykjavik.

Along the way to Reykjavik, we stopped at the gorgeous Gullfoss and also spent time in Pingvellir National Park.

Like all of the waterfalls we have enjoyed in Iceland, Gullfoss inspired awe in all of us.

Gullfoss!

Here’s a video of Gullfoss:

Then, we stopped at Þingvellir (Thingvellir), a historic site and national park in Iceland. It’s known for the Alþing (Althing), the site of Iceland’s parliament from the 10th to 18th centuries. On the site are the Þingvellir Church and the ruins of old stone shelters.

Jerry and the boys walking between two continents– 2 tectonic plates that are gradually pulling Iceland apart.

 

 

Þingvellir has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site because of the area’s abundant natural wonders, including Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake, and the Silfra fissure, in which one can dive or snorkel between the American and European tectonic plates.

Iceland sits on top of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a 25-mile long crack in the ocean floor caused by the separation of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The country is growing by 2.5 cm per year as it continues to be pulled apart while splitting wider at the points where the two tectonic plates meet. As a result, the western part of Iceland (west of the volcanic zones) belongs to the North American plate and the eastern is the Eurasian plate, which means Iceland is actually in two continents.

Pingvellir sits in a rift valley caused by the separation of the two tectonic plates, with rocky cliffs and fissures, such as the huge Almannagjá fault, which we walked through. Spanning the Mid-Atlantic Ridge,  Iceland emerged as a result of the divergent, spreading, boundary between these two plates and the activity of Iceland’s own hotspot or mantle plume.

The Silfra fissure opened in 1789, due to the movements of the tectonic plates that frame Þingvellir National Park. The North American and Eurasian plates, which run all the way through Iceland, separate at about 2.5 centimeters per year, and as they do, they tear open fissures in the land between them. The Silfra Rift is considered one of the greatest dive sites in the world. We didn’t do it, but many visitors pay a tour guide to scuba dive in what is the clearest water in the world to get underwater, up-close views from the crack between the American and the Eurasian continents.

After having a picnic at Pingvellir, we headed for Reykjavik.

Reykjavik is Iceland’s capital and largest city. It’s home to the National and Saga museums, tracing Iceland’s Viking history. We loved Reykjavik and spent a day walking its streets and touring the striking and commanding 250-feet-tall concrete Hallgrimskirkja church. We rode the elevator to the top, where we were afforded beautiful views of the city.

Hallgrimskirkja church in Reykjavik.
Reykjavik is a beautiful city.

After a day of rest and relaxation–and some loads of laundry–we were filled with anticipation for what would come next: The Secret Solstice Music Festival. We had bought tickets for Friday, Summer Solstice, and we couldn’t wait to listen to some great music, and dance under the midnight sun.

We love to dance. So, even though we have done some epic hiking and exploring, this might just be the most physically demanding portion of our Iceland trip! Hahaha. But seriously. 🙂

We had an amazing night! We hung in the very front–in the mosh pit–with the boys for Pusha T. But after Pusha T, Jerry and I, being the old folks in the family, opted to move to the far back where we wouldn’t have to brace for flying dancing bodies. 🙂

It was an exhilarating evening of fantastic music and energy under the midnight sun, and I’m pretty sure the whole family will never forget the 2019 Summer Solstice.

Getting ready for the Secret Solstice music festival to start!
Pussy Riot’s performance was Epic!
Our boys, carbo-loading while waiting for Pusha T.
Pusha T did not disappoint!

 

 

 

Here are some videos from the Secret Solstice Festival in Reykjavik:

Pusha T


“Old Folks Still Got It”

Pussy Riot

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and  Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: iceland music festival, jonas blue, pusha t, pussy riot, reykjavik, secret solstice festival

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

Map of the grand finale of our Iceland Vacation, Part 7 of 7.

“I dream with my eyes open.”
― Jules Verne, Journey to the Center of the Earth

For our grand finale in Iceland, we signed up for a guided climb of Snæfellsjökull, a 700,000-year-old glacier-capped stratovolcano on the Snaefellness Peninsula in western Iceland.

The volcano, which stands 4745 feet tall and is the “crown” of Snaefellness peninsula, would be a mountaineering experience and we were looking forward to walking on a glacier to get to the top of a volcano.

The mountain was first climbed in 1754 and is still a very active volcano. The volcano is also famous. Snæfellsjökull became world-famous after Jules Verne described it in his book of “A Journey to the Center of the Earth.” Or, maybe you’ve seen the movie.

We hired GoWest to guide us. Our guide, Orsi, was phenomenal. We drove to a point from which we hiked through lava fields for about a mile or so before reaching the bottom of the glacier. We put our crampons and harnesses on and roped up.

We had Snaesfelljokull all to ourselves. It was hard work climbing 3,000′ on snow and the wind gusts were frequent. Often, during our ascent, we couldn’t see anything but white. Other times, though, we could see the ocean below, and lava fields and the peak we were hiking toward.

When we got to the top it was blustery cold and the summit was in and out of the clouds, but we bundled up, ate a quick snack and got some photos. We didn’t stay on the summit for long because of the weather, but had a great descent down and the clouds cleared for us to have outstanding scenery during our descent.

We were whipped but fulfilled when we reach the van. We all agreed it was the most epic grand finale we could have experienced at the end of such an unforgettable trip.

Ascending Snaefellsjokull

Jerry and the boys, posing with our epic mountain guide, Orsi, a native Icelander.

Descending Snaefellsjokull

 

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and  Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Secret Solstice Music Festival!

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: epic iceland, glacier, grand finale, iceland, iceland adventure, snaefellsjokull, snaefellsness peninsula

Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennisteinsalda and Blahnukur

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

For a range of photos and videos showing the wonders of Landmannalaugar, please visit this blog post.

It wasn’t long after we booked our flights to Iceland and we had started our trip planning that I became enthralled about an area called Landmannalaugar.

I was completely captivated by the area after seeing photos of mountains that didn’t even look real. The photos and reports promised rainbow-colored hills and mountains, dotted with plumes of smoke and steam rising from the area’s fumaroles.

We had an extraordinary day and epic hike in Landmannalaugar. My family and I have hiked in some amazing places all over the U.S. and world. In other words, my list of unforgettable hiking experiences in long. I don’t like to compare hikes because the regions of the hikes are often so different that I love them for their individual characteristics. But that said, Landmannalaugar ranks way up high on my list of favorite unforgettable hiking experiences. I can’t recommend it enough!

As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. For a more lengthy and information report about hiking in Landmannalaugar, I wrote this article. Otherwise, I just want to leave you with photos and videos of our adventure in Landmannalaugar. They are so much more inspiring than anything I could write. I’m writing words to hopefully provide enough information for you to plan your own Landmannalaugar hike, but when it comes to inspiring you, my words will do nothing compared to the photos and videos.

Landmannalaugar is located in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, in the Highlands of Iceland. It is situated at the edge of the Laugahraun lava field, which was formed in an eruption around the year 1477. The Landmannalaugar region is known for its natural geothermal hot springs and its unique and colorful landscape composed of with rainbow-colored mountains, lava fields and smoking fumaroles.

The first thing one needs to know about hiking in Landmannalaugar is you must have a 4×4 vehicle to access this Wonderland. (Or, you could opt for a tour or hire a ride to get there.) Because our Iceland trip was 15 days long and there was a lot we wanted to see that would require driving on dirt roads, we rented a 4×4. On the passenger side dashboard, there was a sticker that essentially granted us permission to drive on dirt roads, and also warning to hold tightly to the car doors when opening and closing them or they could be blown off by the wind.

We had based out the Highland Center Hrauneyjar, which I highly recommend. The rooms were wonderful and the hotel is lovely. The people who work there provided wonderful and friendly service, and there’s even a Ranger on hand to answer questions about the region. We left the Highland Center at 7 am and drove about 1 mile east on the paved road, F26, before taking a right onto the dirt road, F208, that would lead us to Landmannalaugar. We traveled the scenic, bumpy dirt road for 25 miles. It took about one hour to get to Landmannalaugar, and we had the road pretty much to ourselves.

We opted to park our vehicle in the first parking lot. We knew from our research and could see now with our eyes, that it’s possible to drive further to park, to be closer to the main complex and campground, but you’d have to drive through a large puddle that on this day looked more like a small lake. We opted to play it safe and walk the quarter-mile to the main area and trailheads.

We had lucked out with a favorable weather forecast, but still packed lots of layers and bundled up for the start. We had been in Iceland long enough to know that wind is common and it’s often chilly like our Wyoming winds are in the high country.

Situated at about 2,000′ (600 meters) elevation, Landmannalaugar is a popular destination for adventurers and this was obvious by the number of colorful tents pitched at the campground and the number of jacked-up 4x4s parked nearby. We used the WC and then reviewed the trail map and started up the trail.

Our plans were to hike a lot and see as much of the area as we could. Our only specific goals were we planned to climb two mountains (volcanos): Brennisteinsalda and Blahnukur.

We started up the Laugahringur Circle Trail, which is the most popular trail in Landmannalaugar. The landscape is littered with lava chunks. As we hiked up and through the lava field, our middle son, Hayden, was exuberant at all the obsidian. He had been looking for obsidian our whole trip and here it was abundant.

After hiking through the lava field for some minutes, we were treated to breathtaking views of the Vondugil (bad ravines) Canyon. We walked up the canyon to Grænagil, at which point we had a great view of our first objective: Brennisteinsalda (“sulfur hill.”) Brennisteinsalda, which means sulfur wave, is a colorful, 2,800-foot-high mountain (hill) with steam vents around its base that filled the air with sulfur (the smell of rotten eggs). It was a steep effort but it didn’t take us long to climb the volcano and we were on the top.

Due to our early start, we had the mountain top to ourselves so we lingered and took lots of photos. You’ll see from some of the photos included that it was a windy, you-better-hold-onto-your-hat summit experience. The views from the top were extraordinary. We could see lava fields, rainbow-colored hills, a lush green meadow, more mountain peaks all around and black lava scattered everywhere.

One thing we noticed was a circular pattern in the black field in the distance. We came to learn the circles are called Nornabaugar, which means Witch’s Rings. The circles are formed by a mushroom trying to grow in Iceland’s’ sensitive highland regions. You’ll see this in one of my photos below.

After descending Brennisteinsalda, we found our way to a beautiful creek that separated us from our next mountain climb, Blahnukur. After crossing a creek we found a path that would lead us up a beautiful ravine and eventually to Blahnukur’s summit.

This was harder than our first volcano climb because it’s a little higher. Blahnukur, which means blue peak, is a 60,000-year-old black-blue volcano that stands 3,100 feet tall.

As a family, we have climbed many mountains. Gone are the days when we had to bribe them with sweet treats up the trail. It wasn’t long and the boys and Jerry left me in the dust. I just couldn’t get enough of the views as we ascended the ravine to gain a ridge to climb Blahnukur. The hills to my right were so colorful, and the higher reaches of the hills had snow patches nestled in them that made the mountains and hills look cartoonish. Also, there were enormous patches of neon-green colored moss that didn’t look real. I was in Heaven and as such, I lingered more than I hiked.

Hiking throuigh lava fields.

Eventually, I caught up to the boys and we started the real ascent. After hiking up a worn path for a bit, we gained the mountain’s very exposed ridge. You wouldn’t want to slip either right or left as when climbing Blahnukur.  The panoramic views that unfolded all around as we climbed higher and higher were astonishing. This was probably my favorite part of the day’s adventure because I love climbing ridges and to the tops of mountains.

When we reached the top another small group was starting down so again, we had some moments at the top all to ourselves. We sat and hung our legs over the edge of Blahnukur’s top and took some photos before starting our descent. Our descent was quick and we enjoyed a picnic in the fantastic setting that is Graenigil Canyon before eventually finishing the hike through more lava.

Our entire adventure was about 12 miles, and while we took our time taking in the views and eating snacks, we finished the whole hike in about 4.5 hours. Which meant we had a lot of time to soak in the natural hot springs near the trailhead!

Soaking in Landmannalaugar’s geothermal waters was a perfect ending to our time in Landmannalaugar.

We’re back home in Wyoming and I find myself recalling often the colorful mountains of Landmannalaugar. It truly is an unforgettable experience, and in my humble opinion, a visit to Iceland without time in Landmannalaugar will be incomplete.

(NOTE: The most famous long-distance trail in Iceland starts here and is called the Laugavegur. The trail is about 34 miles long (55 kilometers) and runs from the Landmannalaugar geothermal springs to the Þórsmörk nature reserve. The Laugavegur trail is considered to be one of the most epic treks in the world, and most people will reserve 3-5 days to hike its entire length. I have added it to my bucket list.)

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and  Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Secret Solstice Music Festival!

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: blahnukur, brennisteinsalda, hiking, iceland, iceland epic adventure, iceland hiking, landmannalaugar

Our Family’s Camino de Santiago Adventure

April 4, 2019 by Shelli

Hi!

Last summer, our family of five backpacked 150 miles of the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. It was an epic and meaningful adventure we will never forget. If you’re interested in learning more about what the experience is like, I’m including links below for daily blog posts I published each evening from the Camino. (Also included is the pre-Adventure blog post.)

I hope you may be inspired to embark on your own pilgrimage some day!

Pre-Adventure:
Spain or Bust: Camino de Santiago Here We Come 

Blog Posts from the Field During our Camino De Santiago Pilgrimage:
Day 1 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 2 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 3 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 4 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 5 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 6 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 7 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 8 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 9 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 10 – Our Last Day – on the Camino de Santiago.

Filed Under: Family, Fitness, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: camino de santiago, epic adventure, family adventure, family travel, long trek, pilgrimage, spain, the way

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About Shelli

Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live on the frontier in Lander, Wyoming. I’m a wife, a mother, an entrepreneur, certified life/leadership coach, wellness coach, keynote presenter and inspired speaker, leadership development facilitator, personal development strategist, writer and adventure guide. This blog mostly includes stories about adventures and travel, but other passions are reading/books, technology, fitness, nutrition, and national parks, so you’ll find a wide range of articles here. I am founder of Yellowstone Journal and YellowstonePark.com, and NationalParkTrips.com, which was my first business. My current company, Epic Life Inc., is in its 7th year, and going gangbusters. If you’re interested in learning more about my current work, I hope you’ll jump over there and learn more about that. I have a more personal blog, more directly related to life and living and leadership, at YourEpicLife.com/blog. I’d love it if you’d also check out that collection of my writings. Thank you for stopping by! Finally, if you’d like to connect with me directly, please email me if you’d like to connect.

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