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family adventure

Zermatt: Gornergrat Glacier, the Matterhorn, Mountain Lakes, and More Delicious Food

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

Greetings! After successfully making four train connections, we arrived in picturesque Zermatt, Switzerland. Zermatt is in southern Switzerland’s Valais canyon, and is a mountain resort renowned for skiing, climbing and other alpine recreation. The town is set below the iconic, snow-capped Matterhorn peak. Its main street, Bahnhofstrasse, has upscale boutiques, lodging from luxurious hotels to modest chalets. Except for work vehicles and taxis, the town is car-less and accessed only by train.

(By the way, this is my 6th blog post published so far during our 29-day “Epic Europe Family Adventure.” If you’re interested, all previous trip reports from this Epic Family Adventure include are listed and linked to at the bottom of this blog post.)

Hayden Fin and Wolf, in Zermatt, in front of the Matterhorn.
Hayden Fin and Wolf, in Zermatt, in front of the Matterhorn.
The town of Zermatt, Switzerland, with the iconic Matterhorn in the background.
The town of Zermatt, Switzerland, with the iconic Matterhorn in the background.

After checking in and dropping our luggage at the wonderful Chalet Medi, we headed out to buy discount 3:36pm tickets to ride the Gornergrat Bahn. The Gornergrat Railway would take us to the top of the Gornergrat, to an elevation of 10,135′.

The Gornergrat (English: Gorner Ridge) is a rocky ridge of the Pennine Alps, situated at 10,285′ and overlooking the Gorner Glacier. It is the second highest railway in Europe, and the highest open-air railway in Europe.

The Gornergrat Glacier is about 22 square miles, and is on the west side of the Monte Rosa massif. We’d see about 29 tall peaks while at the Glacier.

The train ride was a hit! Check out this video I captured near the top:

Family photo on the top of the Gornergrat.
Family photo on the top of the Gornergrat.

Once at the top of the Gornergrat, we were fascinated while looking at the glacier.

Gorner Glacier, approximately 22 square miles in size.
Gorner Glacier, approximately 22 square miles in size.

We also stopped into a little chapel before taking some panoramic photos from the very top. Called the “Bernhard von Aosta” chapel, it is one of Zermatt’s most visited places of worship. Visitors from all over the world stop to light a candle and enjoy the soothing tranquillity of this mountain sanctuary. We stopped in and donated a franc in a little basket so we could light a candle, and then, since we had the little chapel to ourselves, we said a family prayer, mostly thanking God for our safety, our friends and family, and for all of our blessings. It was very meaningful!

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Afterward, we bought ourselves a beverage and enjoyed it while taking in the panoramic views before catching our return train ride back to Zermatt. We needed to get back to eat dinner so we could be to bed to get rest for the next day’s epic hike.

We enjoyed a fabulous dinner at The Brown Cow Pub in Zermatt and then hit the hay.

Our middle son, Hayden, pleased with his wings and fries at The Brown Cow Pub.
Our middle son, Hayden, pleased with his wings and fries at The Brown Cow Pub.

The next day started early. We had the boys up and at ’em and out the door to start hiking at 8am sharp. Once again, we skipped the tram lifts up and started up a mountain. This time we knew the difference between meters and feet, and still we went for not pursuing the parents of the year award. (The tram didn’t open until 9am, and it was 8am. That explains it, right? Insert smiley face here. LOL)

We hiked basically straight up a mountain… I think it was part of the Cervo boutique mountain resort, but I’m not 100% certain as I write this. Finally, after a long, hard, seemingly endless uphill effort, we arrived at a signed junction that indicated we were 30 minutes from Sunnegga. It was mostly a flat path to Sunnegga, and we had a bunch of our snacks, and some water on a bench under a cross, while taking in views of the valley below, and the Matterhorn and other mountains, whose tops will at the moment obscured by clouds. (We had hoped that the Sunnegga station would be open and have hot chocolate, but no luck. We reached it too early, too!)

Hiking up, up, up.
Hiking up, up, up.

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After getting refueled, we continued to Leisee Lake, which was surrounded by jungle gyms and picnic tables. The next lake was Moosjisee which was beautiful turquoise in color.

The boys hung out at this pullup bar? before continuing to another lake.
The boys hung out at this pull-up bar (?) before continuing to another lake.
Almost to Moosjiee Lake.
Almost to Moosjiee Lake.

After that, we still wanted to see another lake, so we continued on and up to Grünsee Lake. This one was a little more hard-earned.

Here’s a short video clip of that stretch:

Finally, we reached Grünsee Lake, which was beautiful, even if it was small. I am NOT complaining, but these “lakes” seem more like ponds to us. They were very tiny by Wyoming standards, so I’d by lying if I didn’t say we were a little disappointed when we crested after a long hill to see the very tiny Grünsee Lake.

On the upside, we had it the lake all to ourselves, and the Matterhorn’s summit was now out of the clouds. We had a wonderful rest at the lake. One of our sons skipped rocks, another took photos of the area, and the other played with the hundreds of minnows he spotted in the lake. We didn’t rest for long, though, as we had a long hike and descent back into Zermatt, and at this point we already had 10 or 11 miles on our legs.

Here are some photos:
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It took us some hours to get back because, as per usual for us, we made the hike longer and harder than originally proposed. 🙂 As a result, we saw even more than we imagined was possible and we were more deserving of even more delicious food and drink upon our entry back into Zermatt.

Have I mentioned lately how blessed I am to have such troopers for a husband and three sons? They go on these epic hikes with me, that are always longer than they anticipate, and never complain.

Our champion sons.
Our champion sons.

Here is us after crossing the finish line:

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And, as always, there were so many unexpected surprises, including these beauties:

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Thanks for following along with us on our Epic Family Europe Adventure. Please stay tuned and check back for more.

Up next: Moneglia, Italy and the Cinque Terre Trail!

If you’re interested, here are all of my previous blog posts about this Epic Europe Family Adventure so far:
• From Wyoming to the British Museum and Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew in 24 hours
• Big Ben, River Thames, Tower of London and Ice Cream
• Munich Day 1: Glockenspiel, Deutsches Museum, Englischer Garten and Beirgarten
• Biking in the Bavarian Alps, Exploring Neuschwanstein Castle, Epic Beer & Food
• Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland: The Land of Many Fountains, Cows with Bells and Epic Food

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: epic life, family adventure, five lakes hike, gornergrat, hiking, matterhorn, swiss alps, switzerland hiking, zermatt

Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland: The Land of Many Fountains, Cows with Bells and Epic Food

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

Oh. My. God. We have arrived. Today we rode many trains from Munich to arrive here, Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland. Immediately it was evident why this place is called Lauterbrunnen –- which means, “Many Fountains.” In the Swiss Alps, Lauterbrunnen is set in a valley featuring tall cliffs, and waterfalls, including the roaring Staubbaach and Trummelbach and the many other tall, ribbon-like and tumbling waterfalls.

(By the way, this is my 5th blog post published so far during our 29-day “Epic Europe Family Adventure.” If you’re interested, all previous trip reports from this Epic Family Adventure include are listed and linked to at the bottom of this blog post.)

Jerry and the boys lead us to our accommmodations in Lauterbrunnen.
Jerry and the boys lead us to our accommodations in Lauterbrunnen.

Waterfalls were tumbling off high cliffs above us and all around us. Below is a lush, green valley with few buildings. We walked in a light sprinkling of rain about one-third of a mile to find what would be our favorite accommodations so far, a really neat cabin in the Jungfrau Campground.

We got settled in our cabin, and then headed for a quick walk. We had been sitting in trains all day so wanted to stretch our legs and check out our new destination. We ventured to the nearby showstopper of a waterfall, Staubbach Falls. With a height of nearly 300 meters, Staubbach Falls is the second highest waterfall in Switzerland. It is one of 72 waterfalls in Lauterbrunnen Valley.

Staubbach Falls.
Staubbach Falls.
Staubbach Falls.
Family selfie in front of Staubbach Falls.

Did I mention how awesome our accommodations were?!! Check out the video I snapped on our first morning waking up. And enjoy the bird songs in the background:

We woke up early in Lauterbrunnen because we had big plans, and wanted to get an early start. Today we would hike the Lauterbrunnen-Murren-Gimmelwald-Trummblebach Falls loop hike.

We’d do it without using any lifts, so it would be a big, long day. Why would you not take the tram lift up at the start in order to remove the several thousand feet of vertical uphill hiking, you ask? Well that is a good question! The reason is Jerry and I mistook meters for feet. What we thought would be a 1,000-foot vertical gain in the beginning of the hike was really 3,000+ feet. Oops. Thankfully we hike a lot with the boys in Wyoming, and they’re used to climbing lots of vertical feet. But, despite what our boys think, ours was an honest mistake!

Add to that it was raining when we started, so we had had on rain jackets, and each of us carried our own umbrella. Our sons are such troopers. And so is my husband. I am so blessed that to have a family of troopers, because today’s outing pretty much required that!

Here are some photos from the first part of our epic hike:

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It was during the grunt of uphill through the lush and wet forest, when I was gasping for air and the miles of uphill were so never-ending that I realized that we had forget to convert meters to feet. Jerry and I would pay for this… We were certainly not winning parents-of-the-year honors this morning…

We had heard that Winteregg would be a stop we could make after the first five or six miles of hiking, and that we may even be able to enjoy some hot chocolate there. Thank God it was true.

After about 2.5 hours of hiking, we spotted it and it just opened as we arrived. Jerry and I enjoyed coffees and the boys had hot chocolates.

My guys, getting a hard-earned rest and beverages from Winteregg, during our hike.
My guys, getting a hard-earned rest and beverages from Winteregg, during our hike.

The woman who waited on us was so kind, she offered to take our photo outside under three giant mountains, whose tops were obscured by clouds but whose presence could still be felt. The mountains we stood under are the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau.

Family photo.
Family photo.

After warming up and getting rested, we snarfed some special Swiss chocolate bars we brought. (We are now in love with Milka bars, and of course Toblerone, which are in abundance here.) We loved the next part of the hike becasue it was flat, and led us to the awesome – and car-less – town of Mürren.

Hiking from Winteregg to Mürren.
Hiking from Winteregg to Mürren.

According to Wikipedia, Mürren is a traditional Walser mountain village in Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, at an elevation of 1,650 m (5,413 ft.) above sea level and unreachable by public road. Tourism is popular through the summer and winter; the village features a view of the three towering mountains: Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Mürren has a population of just 450, but has 2,000 hotel beds.

Our boys, sitting in front of Jungfrau in Mürren.
Our boys, sitting in front of Jungfrau in Mürren.

All we knew was that it was a beautiful town and soon, we could see it. And more importantly, soon we’d be eating at a restaurant there. By now the boys, and Jerry and I, were famished!

We decided on the Eiger Guesthouse for lunch, and it was an exceptionally good pick. Jerry and I shared cheese fondue and a basket full of fresh baked bread, along with a pint of beer for Jerry and a glass of red wine for me. The boys shared a pizza and also ate some of our fondue. Never has a meal hit the spot so well! Here are some photos:

OMG, we finally got to experience firsthand, Switzerland's cheese fondue. It was worth the wait! Incredibly yummy.
OMG, we finally got to experience firsthand, Switzerland’s cheese fondue. It was worth the wait! Incredibly yummy.

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After a filling, delicious and long lunch break, we continued down the trail. Next stop: Gimmelwald, a smaller car-less village that Rick Steves recommends. Gimmelwald is a small village situated at about 4,000′ feet elevation.

Gimmelwald also won us over. It’s another charming village. We especially loved their “Honesty Shop – Europe’s First Unattended Self-Service Village Shop.”

Wolf, in front of the Honesty Shop.
Wolf, in front of the Honesty Shop.

And, then, out of nowhere, we stumbled onto the Pension Gimmelwald Biergarten. Can this hike get any better??!! I don’t think so. It’s epic for so many reasons, most of which I’m including here. 🙂

Jerry, two thumbs up for the biergarten that was not a mirage, but a reality!
Jerry, two thumbs up for the biergarten that was not a mirage, but a reality!
Biergarten refreshment.
Biergarten refreshment.

We loved this part of the hike, where we walked past big cows with their jangling bells around their neck, and views of the green lush valley below, toward which we were descending, and of course, waterfalls everywhere around us.

These cows with bells are everywhere, and you can hear their jangling bells as you hike.
These cows with bells are everywhere, and you can hear their jangling bells as you hike.

See for yourself what this stretch of hike was like:

Jerry and the boys, marching at this point. :) About 2 miles left in the day's trek!
Jerry and the boys, marching at this point. 🙂 About 2 miles left in the day’s trek!
LOL. We think "wanderweg" means wandering. When this photo was taken by my husband of our two oldest sons, we had been wandering all right. All day long! :)
LOL. We think “wanderweg” means wandering. When this photo was taken by my husband of our two oldest sons, we had been wandering all right. All day long! 🙂

We continued down to the valley floor, and another 1.5 hours from there to one of the area’s most famous waterfalls, Trümmelbach Falls.

According to MySwitzerland.com, the Trümmelbach Falls are the world’s only glacier waterfalls that are accessible underground by lift, galleries, tunnels, paths and platforms. They alone carry the meltwater of the glaciers from the Jungfrau down to the valley – up to 20,000 liters of water per second. The water carries with it over 20,000 tons of boulders and scree per year and causes the entire mountain to shudder and make a thundering noise.

We paid to see what all the fuss is about, and it was worth it! Here’s a video:

The boys and I in front of Trümmelbach Falls.
The boys and I in front of Trümmelbach Falls.

When we got back to our cabin, we had hiked 16 miles, including 3,400′ of gain. We were all completely fulfilled and exhilarated, despite being worn out. It was such a fantastic day that included so many highlhights. I’ve tried to list most of them, but trust me when I say there are even more. I simply need to end this blog post so I can get a little shut-eye before we ride a train tomorrow to Zermatt, Switzerland.

Thank you for following along with us on this Epic Adventure. I hope you’ll stay tuned for our upcoming posts.

Next up: Zermatt, Switzerland (including the Gornergrat train ride and views of the Matterhorn and a report about another epic hike we’ll do in that region.)

If you’re interested, here are all of my previous blog posts about this Epic Europe Family Adventure so far:
• From Wyoming to the British Museum and Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew in 24 hours
• Big Ben, River Thames, Tower of London and Ice Cream
• Munich Day 1: Glockenspiel, Deutsches Museum, Englischer Garten and Beirgarten
• Biking in the Bavarian Alps, Exploring Neuschwanstein Castle, Epic Beer & Food

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: eiger, epic hiking, family adventure, fondue, gimmelwald, hiking, jungfrau, lauterbrunnen, monch, murren, staubbach fall, switzerland, switzerland hiking, trummelbach falls, waterfalls, winteregg

Big Ben, River Thames, Tower of London, Beers at a 401-Year-Old Pub and Ice Cream

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

Hello again! As I mentioned in the last post, my husband, Jerry, and I and our three sons, Wolf, 16, Hayden, 14 and Finis, 9, are on a 28-day dream-come-true “Epic Europe Family Adventure.” Our itinerary includes London, Munich, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Portugal.

After a full first day in London, we slept in on Day 2. We enjoyed a breakfast provided by our hotel, Regency House. Given we were in England, Jerry and I did what any wise visitor would do and ordered the “Full English Breakfast.” Oh. My. God. Absolutely delicious. Bacon lovers, our sons each opted for the “bacon sandwich,” which was a piece of thick toast on which a huge heap of cottage bacon was piled. Epic to say the least.

Yum. "Full English Breakfast."
Yum. “Full English Breakfast.”

We were well rested and fueled for the day’s adventure, which would include a tour on the River Thames, and an afternoon at the Tower of London.

We set out to practice our public transportation skills by using our “oyster cards” and the Underground to get to the Westminster Pier. As soon as we walked up the stairs out of the subway station, we were surprised when we looked up and right in front of us were Big Ben, and the spectacular Westminster Abbey palace. We also saw the Eye of London as we found our way to the pier and onto our City Cruises boat.

Big Ben, at the north end of the Palace of Westminster in London.
Big Ben, at the north end of the Palace of Westminster in London.
With the boys in front of the Eye of London.
With the boys in front of the Eye of London.

The River Thames is a river that flows through southern England. It is the longest river that is entirely in England, and it is the second longest river in the United Kingdom. (the longest is the River Severn.) According to Wikipedia, the River Thames gets its name from three sources: the Thames Valley, a region of England around the river between Oxford and West London; the Thames Gateway; and the greatly overlapping Thames Estuary around the tidal Thames to the east of London and including the waterway itself.

Our river cruise’s guide was informational and also very funny, making our tour a wonderful experience. In a short ride, we learned all about London’s major attractions, including some of the most prominent buildings, old and new, the London Bridge(s), the Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, the Eye of London, Big Ben, Westminster Palace, and much more.

Jerry and the boys on our River Thames Tour.
Jerry and the boys on our River Thames Tour.

We disembarked the boat at the Tower Pier, and headed, eagerly, to start our exploration of the Tower of London. We were mainly excited about exploring the White Tower.

The boys and I in front of the White Tower.
The boys and I in front of the White Tower.

Located in the center of the Inner Ward, the White Tower – so named due to the white stone it was built from – was begun in 1078 and completed about 1100. It is four stories tall with walls up to 15 ft thick. The boys loved looking at the armour. By the way, King Henry VIII’s armour weighed up to 90 pounds at times! Can you imagine riding a horse, or going to battle with armour that weighed that much? According to a guide that we talked to at the exhibit, only one knight was known to ever die while in such armour, and it wasn’t from a weapon but rather from a heart attack, probably from being unfit and out of shape, and trying to move around in such heavy attire…

We enjoyed the Line of Kings, which displayed armour of all kinds. Here is King Henry VIII's armour. (At times, the king's armour weighed 90 pounds!)
We enjoyed the Line of Kings, which displayed armour of all kinds. Here is King Henry VIII’s armour (At times, the king’s armour weighed 90 pounds!)

The boys also loved seeing the assortment of ancient weaponry, including mace pistols and swords and spears and mortars and cannons. Some of the cannons reportedly weight 36,000 pounds.

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Of course, the torture exhibit also intrigued us, particularly our sons. We all got a kick out of an ancient torture advice called the “Scold’s Bridle” Here’s the description for it: “The Scold’s Bridle was a popular local punishment throughout Europe, the scold’s bridle publicly humiliated women accused of gossiping. Locked around the woman’s head, the spring mounted bell alerted everyone to her approach.”

A "Scold's Bridle."
A “Scold’s Bridle.”

Next, we headed to The Jewel House to spy the Crown Jewels. I quickly embarrassed the family, and was embarrassed and humiliated when I tried to take a photo of a jeweled crown. I was so enamored by the jewels, I didn’t notice all of the signs saying photos are not allowed. Oops. So I didn’t get any photos, and of course I understand and support why photographs are not allowed. We were mesmerized by all of the jewels on display.

As we left the Jewel House, we watched the guards in front of the Jewel House. Guarding the Jewel House is serious business. The guards are not there for visitors’ display and delight, but rather to keep the order and seriously protect the jewels, and access to the jewels. Some rowdy, misbehaving youth were antagonizing one guard and we saw him come unglued, and rightly so. At any rate, seeing the guards was also thrilling for us. We are not accustomed to seeing such sights on the frontier of Wyoming!

A guard in front of the Jewel House, at the Tower of London.
A guard in front of the Jewel House, at the Tower of London.

We then left the Tower and enjoyed a walk over the beautiful Tower Bridge, and then along the walking path along the south bank of the River Thames.

In front of the Tower Bridge.
In front of the Tower Bridge.

We stopped to enjoy sights like Hay’s Galleria, which includes offices, restaurants, shops and flats. Next we marveled at the replica of Frances Drake’s sailing ship that circumnavigated the globe two times, and is set to do it a third time.

The boys, at Hay's Galleria.
The boys, at Hay’s Galleria.
Jerry and the boys at the Golden Hinde II, a replica of Sir Francis Drake's ship.
Jerry and the boys at the Golden Hinde II, a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship.

Jerry and I got particularly excited when we arrived at a place called the Anchor, a pub that is 401 years old – Europe’s oldest pub. We all sat and enjoyed cold ones – Jerry and I had pints of 1730 and London Glory, respectively, and the boys had Fantas. It was a wonderful day of immersing ourselves in some of London’s culture.

Jerry and I, in front of the Anchor Bankside, a pub in the London that is 401 years old!
Jerry and I, in front of the Anchor Bankside, a pub in the London that is 401 years old!

We met up with Antonia for dinner, and then finished with an ice cream treat. We are ice cream eating fanatics. Our family has enjoyed a tradition of eating ice cream every Friday after school for years now. Since we’re on vacation, it doesn’t matter what day it is, and we may even eat ice cream every day, and in Italy we hope to eat gelato on a daily basis. But I digress.

What I want to emphasize is we fell in love with Jude’s ice cream. The founder of the ice cream company wanted to create the world’s tastiest ice cream with milk from local cows. In his barn at home he set to work and soon the whole family joined in. In the winter of 2002 he carried the first tubs across the field to the village pub and Jude’s Ice Cream was born. The ice cream is named it after his wife.

Our youngest son, Fin, upon tasting the ice cream, remarked: “This is the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted in my whole life.” We all concurred.

Thanks for reading. Please stay tuned for more reports from our Epic Europe Family Adventure. Next up: Munich, Germany!

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: anchor pub, europe travel, family adventure, francis drake, golden hinde ii, judes ice cream, london, river thames, tower bridge, tower of london

From Wyoming to the British Museum and The Taming of the Shrew in London in 24 hours

June 3, 2016 by Shelli

My husband, Jerry, and I and our three sons, Wolf, 16, Hayden, 14 and Finis, 9, are just starting our “Epic Europe Family Adventure.”

This trip is a dream-come-true that we have been dreaming about, planning and saving for for some time. Our adventure is 28 days long and includes this itinerary: London, Munich, Germany (via Paris, France), Lauterbrunnen and Zermatt, Switzerland, Italy’s Moneglia and Cinque Terre, Pisa, Florence and Rome, and then Portugal.

First, we drove from our home in Lander, Wyoming, to Denver, CO., where we made a quick visit with my Grandma, and then we visited Jerry’s brother, Jamie, who dropped us off at the airport for our direct flight to London.

At the Denver airport. Europe or Bust!
At the Denver airport. Europe or Bust!

The flight was an 8-hour flight that took off at 7:45pm. After in the air, we let the boys watch one movie, then we all closed our eyes ’till we landed in London, which given the 7-hour jump ahead in time, meant we had feet on the ground in Europe at 11:30am on Monday, May 23.

Once in London, we were greeted by my friend, Antonia, whom I met on my Brooks Range Alaska NOLS course in 2011. Antonia has visited us in Lander, WY for the famous 4th of July, during her Yellowstone Park visits. Now, we would see her on her turf! (She’s from Germany, but teaches Sanskrit at a private school in London.)

It was so great to see Antonia, who led us to the Underground, and traveled to a station near our hotel on Gower Street. We loved that our room number was “1.” How perfect for the start of our adventure. We also loved the quaint comfort of our hotel room, which was exactly one room with 5 beds in it – one for each of us. We found this to be charming in its practicality.

Our room number for our first hotel on the trip: 1.

Our room number for our first hotel on the trip: 1.

Tired from our hours of travel, which included our 5-hour drive from Lander, WY to Denver, CO, and then 8-hour international flight during the night, and add to that we were suddenly on a clock that was 7 hours ahead of our usual (US Mountain Standard Time) schedule, we were not exactly full of energy. So we all relaxed in our hotel room for a couple of hours and visited with Antonia, before venturing to the British Museum.

We intentionally planned a mellow first day in London because we knew we’d be tired, and we planned to not do what we felt like, which was collapse on the hotel beds for a nap. (Our friends and family who have traveled to Europe advised against taking a nap, suggesting we should instead resist napping and try to fall into step with the local time)

We planned to explore at a lazy pace a small portion of the British Museum, which was just a couple of blocks from our hotel, and then get some dinner at a pub, before watching The Taming of the Shrew, at the historic outdoor Globe Theatre.

Posing with our friend, Antonia, in the British Museum.
Posing with our friend, Antonia, in the British Museum.

The British Museum, which offers free admission, was a treat, and that is an understatement! Rick Steves calls it the “Chronicle of Western Civilization,” and his description is apt. There is no way we could adequately review all the museum has to offer, so we focused on just a few areas. We explored much of the museum, but we especially enjoyed seeing the Elgin Marbles, the original Rosetta Stone, and the many Egyptian statues and artifacts.

The Elgin Marbles, known to the world as the Parthenon Marbles, are a collection of Classical Greek marble sculptures (made by the citizens of Athens under the supervision of the renowned architect and sculptor Phidias and his assistants), inscriptions, and architectural pieces that were originally part of the temple of the Parthenon and other buildings on the Acropolis of Athens. Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin obtained in 1801 a controversial permit from the Sublime Porte, which then ruled Greece.

The boys, admiring some of the Elgin Marbles, in the British Museum.
The boys, admiring some of the Elgin Marbles, in the British Museum.
 Part of the Elgin Marbles, this naked man reclines on a rock, cushioned by the skin of a feline animal. He is probably Dionysos, god of wine. (His missing right hand perhaps held a cup of wine?)

Part of the Elgin Marbles, this naked man reclines on a rock, cushioned by the skin of a feline animal. He is probably Dionysos, god of wine. (His missing right hand perhaps held a cup of wine?)
Some of the panels that are part of the Elgin Marbles.
Some of the panels that are part of the Elgin Marbles.
Part of the Elgin Marbles, this is the head of a horse from the chair of the moon-goddess, Selene.
Part of the Elgin Marbles, this is the head of a horse from the chair of the moon-goddess, Selene.

Well, I think if all we had time for were the Elgin Marbles, that would have been pretty astounding in itself. The boys and I really loved looking at all of them, and reading and learning about them. It’s something else to imagine the work, the skill and craftsmanship, and the commitment required to carve such beautiful sculptures from stone, and to see them some 2,500 years later.

Well, I think if all we had time for were the Elgin Marbles, that would have been pretty astounding in itself. The boys and I really loved looking at all of them, and reading and learning about them. It’s something else to imagine the work, the skill and craftsmanship, and the commitment required to carve such beautiful sculptures from stone.

Next up was the original, 5,000-year-old Rosetta Stone. The Rosetta Stone holds the key to understanding Egyptian hieroglyphs and is a script made up of small pictures that was used originally in ancient Egypt for religious texts.

The Rosetta Stone holds the key to understanding Egyptian hieroglyphs—a script made up of small pictures that was used originally in ancient Egypt for religious texts.
The Rosetta Stone holds the key to understanding Egyptian hieroglyphs—a script made up of small pictures that was used originally in ancient Egypt for religious texts.

The boys especially loved Room 4, the Egyptian sculptures. There are many. In fact, the British Museum holds the largest collection of Egyptian objects that are outside of Egypt.

We first explored mummies, which includes actual corpses and displays of the history, and process of of mummifying. Especially fascinating is the 5,000-year-old sand-dried mummy.

The mummy exhibits are extraordinary.
The mummy exhibits are extraordinary.

The statue of King Ramesses II was carved from a single block of stone, and is the upper part of a colossal seated statue. The sculpture weight 20 tons (40,000 pounds!), and was transported on sleds over land and In a purpose-built boat down the Nile.

The statue of King Ramesses II is the upper part of a colossal seated statue.
The statue of King Ramesses II is the upper part of a colossal seated statue.
A sarcophagus is a box-like funeral receptacle for a corpse, most commonly carved in stone, and displayed above ground, though it may also be buried.
A sarcophagus is a box-like funeral receptacle for a corpse, most commonly carved in stone, and displayed above ground, though it may also be buried.

After the British Museum, we found a British pub, where Jerry, Antonia and I enjoyed a cold one, and we all ate a pretty tasty pub meal.

Fed and feeling recharged, we caught the Underground and then walked to the historic Globe Theater. Seeing The Taming of the Shrew was a treat for me that the family agreed to. I was full of anticipation to see the Shakespeare play for the first time, and to see it in Shakespeare’s original venue. The Globe is an oak-and-thatch replica of the original Elizabethan theatre, showing Shakespeare plays in the open air.

Riding the Underground with my friend Antonia, who showed us the ropes.
Riding the Underground with my friend Antonia, who showed us the ropes.

The play was epic! Jerry and the boys were generous in agreeing to include the play on our itinerary, since I was the only one enthused about it. But, to my pleasant surprise, the boys loved it. It woke them up, and I even caught Fin, our 9-year-old, laughing out loud throughout the play. The cast was fantastic, and the setting was unbeatable, making the entire experience of watching the play a 10 out of 10. I highly recommend attending a Shakespeare play in the open air, outdoor Globe Theater.

We loved watching The Taming of the Shrew in the historic, open air Globe Theatre.
We loved watching The Taming of the Shrew in the historic, open air Globe Theatre.

We were exhilarated by the play, especially the second act, which was even more spectacular than the first. As we made out way out of the theater and walked to the Underground station, we stopped to take in a beautiful reflection of the awe-inspiring St. Paul’s Cathedral in the River Thames. We then walked across a bridge and right up to the Cathedral before we found our transport.

According to Wikipedia, St Paul’s Cathedral, London, is an Anglican cathedral, the seat of the Bishop of London, and the mother church of the Diocese of London. It sits on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City of London. Its dedication to Paul the Apostle dates back to the original church on this site, founded in AD 604.

St. Paul's Cathedral, reflected in the River Thames, in London.
St. Paul’s Cathedral, reflected in the River Thames, in London.
Hayden, in front of St. Paul's Cathedral, in London.
Hayden, in front of St. Paul’s Cathedral, in London.

The present church, dating from the late 17th century, was designed in the English Baroque style by Sir Christopher Wren. The cathedral is one of the most famous and most recognizable sights of London. Its dome, framed by the spires of Wren’s City churches, dominated the skyline for 300 years. At 365 feet high, it was the tallest building in London from 1710 to 1962. The dome is among the highest in the world. St Paul’s is the second largest church building in the United Kingdom, second only to Liverpool Cathedral.

We made it back to the hotel at around 11:30pm and pretty much collapsed into immediate sleep. If our first day and evening’s events were any indication, this dream-come-true, 28-day adventure in Europe was going to be nothing short of epic…

Thanks for reading, and please stay tuned for more posts here as we make our way through Munich, Germany, Lauterbrunnen and Zermatt, Switzerland, Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park, Pisa, Florence and Rome, and Lisbon and Lagos, Portugal.

(See London Day 2 blog post)

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, Life and Leadership, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: epic adventure, europe, family adventure, family travel, london

Kodachrome State Park is Great Base Camp

April 24, 2011 by Shelli

On our recent spring break camping trip in southwestern Utah, we spent two nights camping and one day hiking and exploring Utah’s Kodachrome State Park. We had been to the area before and loved it.

Family photo during our hike on the Panorama Trail.

This state park gets its name, Kodachrome, from a 1948 National Geographic Society expedition that named the area after its popular color film. Kodachrome State Park is known for its tall and colorful spires.

Almost 70 monolithic stone spires — called sedimentary pipes — jut out of red and orange desert-like environs. The colorful sandstone formations reveal 180 million years of geologic time.

Our 9-year-old and 11-year-old sons climb on the rocks.
Fin, our 4-year-old, doing the bear walk up a rock.

We enjoyed a couple of great hikes that started right near the campground. Our favorite was the Panorama trail, which is mostly level and takes you through a landscape that includes towering spires, Utah juniper and pinyon pine, signs of an earlier time in features like Indian Cave. Our boys’ favorites were Ballerina Spire and the Secret Passage.

Depending on how many spur trails you take, this could be a 6-mile hike. If you remain on the main trail without taking any of the side trips, I think it’s about a 3-mile hike. Either way, it’s level and fun and perfect for families, especially if you have young children and a puppy, like we do.

All of my guys in front of Indian Cave.

We spent a couple of hours having a picnic and just exploring and goofing off and relaxing near the trail to “Secret Passage.” Our three sons, ages 11, 9 and 4, could have played there all day long. There were interesting rocks to climb in and out of and to the top of, places to hide and caves to explore.

According to Wikipedia, geologists believe Kodachrome Basin State Park was once similar to Yellowstone National Park, home to several geysers and hot springs, which eventually solidified, full of sediment. Over, time, the Entrada sandstone surrounding the solidified geysers eroded, leaving large sand pipes — or, spires.

Picnic.

Kodachrome is perfectly situated for people looking to “base camp” in one awesome location with easy access to Zion National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Capitol Reef National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, and other great natural destinations in southwestern Utah.

The perfect day came to a perfect end when we had s’mores at our camp.

S'mores.

At the beginning of our trip, we enjoyed adventuring in Goblin Valley State Park, and en route to Kodachrome, we enjoyed a 6-mile hike to Calf Creek Falls in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument en route to Kodachrome. After our stay at Kodachrome, we headed south a short distance to Coral Pink Sand Dunes. (Stay tuned for the upcoming post about Coral Pink Sand Dunes, which was yet another awesome adventure.)

Here’s a short video of how our last night at camp went at Kodachrome State Park:

Filed Under: Family, Frontier Life, National Parks, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: family adventure, hiking, kodachrome state park, utah camping

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About Shelli

Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live on the frontier in Lander, Wyoming. I’m a wife, a mother, an entrepreneur, certified life/leadership coach, wellness coach, keynote presenter and inspired speaker, leadership development facilitator, personal development strategist, writer and adventure guide. This blog mostly includes stories about adventures and travel, but other passions are reading/books, technology, fitness, nutrition, and national parks, so you’ll find a wide range of articles here. I am founder of Yellowstone Journal and YellowstonePark.com, and NationalParkTrips.com, which was my first business. My current company, Epic Life Inc., is in its 7th year, and going gangbusters. If you’re interested in learning more about my current work, I hope you’ll jump over there and learn more about that. I have a more personal blog, more directly related to life and living and leadership, at YourEpicLife.com/blog. I’d love it if you’d also check out that collection of my writings. Thank you for stopping by! Finally, if you’d like to connect with me directly, please email me if you’d like to connect.

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