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wind river range

Good Views Come to Those Who Hike Uphill

August 9, 2010 by Shelli

Taking quick break at top of Cyclone Pass, overlooking Shoshone Lake and much of the southern Wind River Range.

I just returned from my annual hike to Shoshone Lake above my town of Lander, WY. There’s no other way to describe this 22-mile hike. It’s a grunt.

The trail is not necessarily spectacular, and in fact much of it follows a two-track and is a popular ATV trail. Solitude isn’t the reason you hike to Shoshone Lake. But I’m not complaining!

As long as you’re willing to go uphill for a long time on a steep, rugged, loose and rocky trail, and then downhill for a long time on a steep, rugged, loose and rocky trail, then this hike is worth it. The rewards make it so.

Reward number one: Shoshone Lake.

A good friend, Kathy (Doyle) Swanson, of Casper, WY, joined me on the hike. We started beyond Sinks Canyon State Park, about eight miles southwest of my hometown of Lander, WY, at the base of Fairfield Hill.

We started at 5 am, with headlamps on, with a 1,000-foot elevation gain over one mile. Along the way to Shoshone Lake, we hiked through McMahone Park, by Pete’s Lake, Twin Lakes, and through the vast and awesome Shoshone Basin.

Shortly after hiking through Shoshone Basin and alongside a creek for a short bit, after about 11.5 miles of hiking, we arrived at our first reward: Shoshone Lake. The mountain lake is huge and scenic. For about a mile or so, we hiked along the lake’s shore.

The second, and biggest reward, is what one sees from the top of Cyclone Pass. And the effort it takes to get to this point makes it even more grand. (I’ve done this hike every summer for the last five summers. Every time, regardless of my fitness level, Cyclone Pass is a lung-buster.)

Kathy, hiking up Cyclone Pass. Here, she's almost to the top.

Basically, at about mile 14 of this epic day hike, we faced a rocky incline that climbs close to 1,000 feet in a little over a half of a mile. It’s a combination of where in the hike this uphill grunt presents itself, and its steep nature that makes it grueling. Every time.

No matter that this was my fifth time to see the view from Cyclone Pass. Every time I see it, I am overcome with emotion — i.e. goosebumps and happy tears. One thing I like to do when I have Shoshone Lake first-timer hikers with me is make them promise to not look back while ascending Cyclone Pass. The temptation is huge, if for no other reason you want to stop and catch your breath and take a look around.

I made Kathy promise me she would not look down or back. As far as I know, she kept her word. :>

When we got to the top I told her she could finally look behind her. Watching her take in the view for the first time was almost as great as taking in the view for the first time myself. She was stunned, as you’ll see in the first embedded video near the bottom of this blog post.

After about 20 minutes of taking in the views, taking some video and photos, and snarfing a gourmet PB&H “rollover,” we were on our way to Point B, the point at which my husband, his dad, and my three sons would await for us in a car that would drive us back into Lander.

Kathy, on part of the infamous "Chute." (This is actually the good part of it, though!)

The way back, although it’s almost all downhill, is not for the faint-of-heart hiker. “The Chute” is the most notable reason for this. It’s a 1.5-mile long section on what resembles a dried up creek bed — make that a downhill, dried up creek bed with extra layers of rock for good measure.

Here you walk on rocks and more rocks downhill. It seems like it goes for at least three miles, but it’s one and half miles. Trust me, that’s plenty.

We made really good time on this hike, but The Chute (Yourself?) always slows you down. You can only walk so fast on piles of rocks without turning an ankle or falling down.

We ended near the Switchbacks on Shoshone Lake Road, above Baldwin Creek road. Jerry and his dad awaited us at the top of the last stretch of trail with cold beers in hand (with our names on them.)

It was another awe-inspiring day in my back yard.

At the finish. (Notice the beverages in our hand. My wonderful husband was waiting with beers for us!)

Some video clips of the hike:

Filed Under: Fitness, Frontier Life, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: hiking, shoshone lake, wind river range, wyoming

Hiking the Bears Ears Trail

July 24, 2010 by Shelli

Me, on the Bears Ears Trail. You can see by looking at Bears Ears Mountain behind me in this photo where the trail gets its name.

The Bears Ears Trail is one of my favorite trails in all of Wyoming’s Wind River Range. This is due to the nature of the trail and the views it provides.

After a little more than three miles of switchbacks through forest, the trail opens up into alpine tundra and hands out spectacular views as it ascends Adams Pass.

We had set out with plans for a long and epic hike that would include the Bears Ears Trail and the Lizard Head Trail as an out-and-back day hike that would total about 28 miles. Mother Nature had other plans, though. Thunder and rain crashed our party around 11 a.m., which meant we did not get to hike the Lizard Head Trail. It was still a phenomenal adventure I will not forget.

We had a generous winter this year, which meant on our July 21 hike, the trail was still wet in many places. We even hiked over snow a handful of times. But it also meant the wildflowers were amazing.

My husband, Jerry, and friends Holly and Leann hiking Adams Pass on the Bears Ears Trail.

Adams Pass is amazing in its own right. But the hands-down prize is the view hikers are provided after about seven miles of hiking. What hikers get to see seven miles into this hike has got to be one of the best views in and of Wyoming’s southern Wind River Range.

We hiked over some snow in a handful of places along the trail.

What you see is an awesome panorama of rugged country, including Mount Washakie, Washakie Pass, Bernard Peak, Lock Leven Lake, Chess Ridge, Mount Hooker, Mount Bonneville, and Musembeah Peak, which towers over Grave Lake.

We chose our turnaround point to be the area in front of a deep and dramatic cirque that lay directly in the foreground of the aforementioned view. We pulled just off the trail to what looked like a mess of huge boulders that fell out of the sky, leading to a sudden and deep hole/cirque. We all agreed you would not want to walk around this area in the dark!

Well, what more can I say? This was yet another epic day in my back yard. Another reminder of how lucky I am to live here.

My husband, Jerry, standing in front of a sudden cirque and an amazing, panoramic view of the southern Wind River Range.

NOTE: The trailhead is in Dickinson Park, about 37 miles northwest of my hometown of Lander, WY. The trail starts at about 9,300′ elevation and gains about 2,600′. It’s recommended you hike the eight miles to the junction of the Lizard Head Trail, and then scramble approximately 350 feet up to the top of Mt. Chauvenet, via its western slope. We didn’t on this day, but Jerry and I did so about 11 years ago and it’s highly recommended!

HERE ARE 3 SHORT VIDEO CLIPS THAT PROVIDE A GLIMPSE INTO THE BEAUTY OF THIS HIKE. ENJOY!

Filed Under: Frontier Life, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: bears ears trail, hike, hiking, wind river range, wyoming

Blue Ridge Lookout: A Perfect Family Hike

July 22, 2010 by Shelli

Blue Ridge Lookout is a short, but exciting hike for families, especially those who have small children. These are our boys.

I live in Lander, Wyoming, which is an awesome town with about 7,000 people in it, located in the foothills of the spectacular Wind River Range. Those of you who follow me and this blog are well aware of my love of this area and for hiking.

Recently, my husband, Jerry, and I took our three young sons on a favorite local day hike. The hike is only one mile round trip, making it an “easy adventure” for young children with small legs. (The hike starts at 9,600 feet elevation so there could be some effort and huffing and puffing even from the adults in the group.)

Family timer photo on top of the historic Blue Ridge Lookout.

The Blue Ridge Lookout was constructed in 1938. The views from the top are magnificent. Among other sights, you’ll see Wind River Peak and Atlantic Peak, Fiddler Lake and lots of forest. I have fond memories of making this hike with my siblings and parents when I was a kid. It is truly one of the best short hikes and picnic spots for families here in my back yard.

The trailhead is located about 23 miles southwest of Lander, along the Sinks Canyon-Louis Lake Road. The trail, which starts at about 9,600′ elevation gains about 365 feet by the time you reach the top of the lookout.

Note: Keep your young children on a short leash. This could be a dangerous destination for kids left unattended due to the heights of the lookout.

Here’s a short “video journal” of the day’s outing. It will provide visuals for the actual hike, as well as the lookout. Enjoy!

Filed Under: Family, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: blue ridge lookout, family adventure, hiking, wind river range, wyoming hikes

Biking to Frye Lake, in Wind River Range

June 19, 2010 by Shelli

Good morning. Stopped pedaling for a quick timer photo in front of Frye Lake.

Right now, the “Switchbacks” and road that connects nearby Sinks Canyon State Park and Bruce’s Bridge to Highway 28 and South Pass, above my town of Lander, WY, is closed to vehicular traffic, which means as a cyclist you can have the 8 miles of pavement up the Switchbacks all to your self.

Or, as a mountain biker, you can ride the full 26 miles, which climbs to Blue Ridge Lookout, at 9,600′ elevation while passing or traveling near a handful of beautiful lakes set in the foothills of the southern Wind River Range.

Recently, I enjoyed a morning bike ride from Lander up to beyond Frye Lake – just another stellar day in my back yard!

Come along with me and see for yourself:

Filed Under: Fitness, Frontier Life, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: biking, cycling, Fitness, frye lake, lander, outdoors, recreation, wind river range, wyoming

Snowshoeing in May above Lander, WY

May 18, 2010 by Shelli

Recently, the foothills above Lander, WY, received three feet of snow. In mid-May. What this meant was instead of a trailrunning outing, I went on a snowshoeing outing. It was a stellar bluebird day!

Enjoy!

Filed Under: Fitness, Frontier Life, Travel & Tourism Tagged With: Fitness, lander, snowshoeing, wind river range

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About Shelli

Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live on the frontier in Lander, Wyoming. I’m a wife, a mother, an entrepreneur, certified life/leadership coach, wellness coach, keynote presenter and inspired speaker, leadership development facilitator, personal development strategist, writer and adventure guide. This blog mostly includes stories about adventures and travel, but other passions are reading/books, technology, fitness, nutrition, and national parks, so you’ll find a wide range of articles here. I am founder of Yellowstone Journal and YellowstonePark.com, and NationalParkTrips.com, which was my first business. My current company, Epic Life Inc., is in its 7th year, and going gangbusters. If you’re interested in learning more about my current work, I hope you’ll jump over there and learn more about that. I have a more personal blog, more directly related to life and living and leadership, at YourEpicLife.com/blog. I’d love it if you’d also check out that collection of my writings. Thank you for stopping by! Finally, if you’d like to connect with me directly, please email me if you’d like to connect.

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