Frontier Life

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Gullfoss, Þingvellir National Park, Reykjavik and the Secret Solstice Music Festival

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

Map of our Part 6 of our Iceland itinerary.

We left the Highlands of Iceland today and headed for Reykjavik.

Along the way to Reykjavik, we stopped at the gorgeous Gullfoss and also spent time in Pingvellir National Park.

Like all of the waterfalls we have enjoyed in Iceland, Gullfoss inspired awe in all of us.

Here’s a video of Gullfoss:

Then, we stopped at Þingvellir (Thingvellir), a historic site and national park in Iceland. It’s known for the Alþing (Althing), the site of Iceland’s parliament from the 10th to 18th centuries. On the site are the Þingvellir Church and the ruins of old stone shelters.

Jerry and the boys walking between two continents– 2 tectonic plates that are gradually pulling Iceland apart.

Þingvellir has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site because of the area’s abundant natural wonders, including Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake, and the Silfra fissure, in which one can dive or snorkel between the American and European tectonic plates.

Iceland sits on top of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a 25-mile long crack in the ocean floor caused by the separation of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The country is growing by 2.5 cm per year as it continues to be pulled apart while splitting wider at the points where the two tectonic plates meet. As a result, the western part of Iceland (west of the volcanic zones) belongs to the North American plate and the eastern is the Eurasian plate, which means Iceland is actually in two continents.

Pingvellir sits in a rift valley caused by the separation of the two tectonic plates, with rocky cliffs and fissures, such as the huge Almannagjá fault, which we walked through. Spanning the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, Iceland emerged as a result of the divergent, spreading, boundary between these two plates and the activity of Iceland’s own hotspot or mantle plume.

The Silfra fissure opened in 1789, due to the movements of the tectonic plates that frame Þingvellir National Park. The North American and Eurasian plates, which run all the way through Iceland, separate at about 2.5 centimeters per year, and as they do, they tear open fissures in the land between them. The Silfra Rift is considered one of the greatest dive sites in the world. We didn’t do it, but many visitors pay a tour guide to scuba dive in what is the clearest water in the world to get underwater, up-close views from the crack between the American and the Eurasian continents.

After having a picnic at Pingvellir, we headed for Reykjavik.

Reykjavik is Iceland’s capital and largest city. It’s home to the National and Saga museums, tracing Iceland’s Viking history. We loved Reykjavik and spent a day walking its streets and touring the striking and commanding 250-feet-tall concrete Hallgrimskirkja church. We rode the elevator to the top, where we were afforded beautiful views of the city.

After a day of rest and relaxation–and some loads of laundry–we were filled with anticipation for what would come next: The Secret Solstice Music Festival. We had bought tickets for Friday, Summer Solstice, and we couldn’t wait to listen to some great music, and dance under the midnight sun.

We love to dance. So, even though we have done some epic hiking and exploring, this might just be the most physically demanding portion of our Iceland trip! Hahaha. But seriously. 🙂

We had an amazing night! We hung in the very front–in the mosh pit–with the boys for Pusha T. But after Pusha T, Jerry and I, being the old folks in the family, opted to move to the far back where we wouldn’t have to brace for flying dancing bodies. 🙂

It was an exhilarating evening of fantastic music and energy under the midnight sun, and I’m pretty sure the whole family will never forget the 2019 Summer Solstice.

Getting ready for the Secret Solstice music festival to start!

Our boys, carbo-loading while waiting for Pusha T.

Here are some videos from the Secret Solstice Festival in Reykjavik:

Pusha T

“Old Folks Still Got It”

Pussy Riot

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

Map of the grand finale of our Iceland Vacation, Part 7 of 7.

“I dream with my eyes open.”
― Jules Verne, Journey to the Center of the Earth

For our grand finale in Iceland, we signed up for a guided climb of Snæfellsjökull, a 700,000-year-old glacier-capped stratovolcano on the Snaefellness Peninsula in western Iceland.

The volcano, which stands 4745 feet tall and is the “crown” of Snaefellness peninsula, would be a mountaineering experience and we were looking forward to walking on a glacier to get to the top of a volcano.

The mountain was first climbed in 1754 and is still a very active volcano. The volcano is also famous. Snæfellsjökull became world-famous after Jules Verne described it in his book of “A Journey to the Center of the Earth.” Or, maybe you’ve seen the movie.

We hired GoWest to guide us. Our guide, Orsi, was phenomenal. We drove to a point from which we hiked through lava fields for about a mile or so before reaching the bottom of the glacier. We put our crampons and harnesses on and roped up.

We had Snaesfelljokull all to ourselves. It was hard work climbing 3,000′ on snow and the wind gusts were frequent. Often, during our ascent, we couldn’t see anything but white. Other times, though, we could see the ocean below, and lava fields and the peak we were hiking toward.

When we got to the top it was blustery cold and the summit was in and out of the clouds, but we bundled up, ate a quick snack and got some photos. We didn’t stay on the summit for long because of the weather, but had a great descent down and the clouds cleared for us to have outstanding scenery during our descent.

We were whipped but fulfilled when we reach the van. We all agreed it was the most epic grand finale we could have experienced at the end of such an unforgettable trip.

Ascending Snaefellsjokull

Jerry and the boys, posing with our epic mountain guide, Orsi, a native Icelander.

Descending Snaefellsjokull

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Secret Solstice Music Festival!

Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennisteinsalda and Blahnukur

July 5, 2019 by Shelli

For a range of photos and videos showing the wonders of Landmannalaugar, please visit this blog post.

It wasn’t long after we booked our flights to Iceland and we had started our trip planning that I became enthralled about an area called Landmannalaugar.

I was completely captivated by the area after seeing photos of mountains that didn’t even look real. The photos and reports promised rainbow-colored hills and mountains, dotted with plumes of smoke and steam rising from the area’s fumaroles.

We had an extraordinary day and epic hike in Landmannalaugar. My family and I have hiked in some amazing places all over the U.S. and world. In other words, my list of unforgettable hiking experiences in long. I don’t like to compare hikes because the regions of the hikes are often so different that I love them for their individual characteristics. But that said, Landmannalaugar ranks way up high on my list of favorite unforgettable hiking experiences. I can’t recommend it enough!

As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. For a more lengthy and information report about hiking in Landmannalaugar, I wrote this article. Otherwise, I just want to leave you with photos and videos of our adventure in Landmannalaugar. They are so much more inspiring than anything I could write. I’m writing words to hopefully provide enough information for you to plan your own Landmannalaugar hike, but when it comes to inspiring you, my words will do nothing compared to the photos and videos.

Landmannalaugar is located in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, in the Highlands of Iceland. It is situated at the edge of the Laugahraun lava field, which was formed in an eruption around the year 1477. The Landmannalaugar region is known for its natural geothermal hot springs and its unique and colorful landscape composed of with rainbow-colored mountains, lava fields and smoking fumaroles.

The first thing one needs to know about hiking in Landmannalaugar is you must have a 4×4 vehicle to access this Wonderland. (Or, you could opt for a tour or hire a ride to get there.) Because our Iceland trip was 15 days long and there was a lot we wanted to see that would require driving on dirt roads, we rented a 4×4. On the passenger side dashboard, there was a sticker that essentially granted us permission to drive on dirt roads, and also warning to hold tightly to the car doors when opening and closing them or they could be blown off by the wind.

We had based out the Highland Center Hrauneyjar, which I highly recommend. The rooms were wonderful and the hotel is lovely. The people who work there provided wonderful and friendly service, and there’s even a Ranger on hand to answer questions about the region. We left the Highland Center at 7 am and drove about 1 mile east on the paved road, F26, before taking a right onto the dirt road, F208, that would lead us to Landmannalaugar. We traveled the scenic, bumpy dirt road for 25 miles. It took about one hour to get to Landmannalaugar, and we had the road pretty much to ourselves.

We opted to park our vehicle in the first parking lot. We knew from our research and could see now with our eyes, that it’s possible to drive further to park, to be closer to the main complex and campground, but you’d have to drive through a large puddle that on this day looked more like a small lake. We opted to play it safe and walk the quarter-mile to the main area and trailheads.

We had lucked out with a favorable weather forecast, but still packed lots of layers and bundled up for the start. We had been in Iceland long enough to know that wind is common and it’s often chilly like our Wyoming winds are in the high country.

Situated at about 2,000′ (600 meters) elevation, Landmannalaugar is a popular destination for adventurers and this was obvious by the number of colorful tents pitched at the campground and the number of jacked-up 4x4s parked nearby. We used the WC and then reviewed the trail map and started up the trail.

Our plans were to hike a lot and see as much of the area as we could. Our only specific goals were we planned to climb two mountains (volcanos): Brennisteinsalda and Blahnukur.

We started up the Laugahringur Circle Trail, which is the most popular trail in Landmannalaugar. The landscape is littered with lava chunks. As we hiked up and through the lava field, our middle son, Hayden, was exuberant at all the obsidian. He had been looking for obsidian our whole trip and here it was abundant.

After hiking through the lava field for some minutes, we were treated to breathtaking views of the Vondugil (bad ravines) Canyon. We walked up the canyon to Grænagil, at which point we had a great view of our first objective: Brennisteinsalda (“sulfur hill.”) Brennisteinsalda, which means sulfur wave, is a colorful, 2,800-foot-high mountain (hill) with steam vents around its base that filled the air with sulfur (the smell of rotten eggs). It was a steep effort but it didn’t take us long to climb the volcano and we were on the top.

Due to our early start, we had the mountain top to ourselves so we lingered and took lots of photos. You’ll see from some of the photos included that it was a windy, you-better-hold-onto-your-hat summit experience. The views from the top were extraordinary. We could see lava fields, rainbow-colored hills, a lush green meadow, more mountain peaks all around and black lava scattered everywhere.

One thing we noticed was a circular pattern in the black field in the distance. We came to learn the circles are called Nornabaugar, which means Witch’s Rings. The circles are formed by a mushroom trying to grow in Iceland’s’ sensitive highland regions. You’ll see this in one of my photos below.

After descending Brennisteinsalda, we found our way to a beautiful creek that separated us from our next mountain climb, Blahnukur. After crossing a creek we found a path that would lead us up a beautiful ravine and eventually to Blahnukur’s summit.

This was harder than our first volcano climb because it’s a little higher. Blahnukur, which means blue peak, is a 60,000-year-old black-blue volcano that stands 3,100 feet tall.

As a family, we have climbed many mountains. Gone are the days when we had to bribe them with sweet treats up the trail. It wasn’t long and the boys and Jerry left me in the dust. I just couldn’t get enough of the views as we ascended the ravine to gain a ridge to climb Blahnukur. The hills to my right were so colorful, and the higher reaches of the hills had snow patches nestled in them that made the mountains and hills look cartoonish. Also, there were enormous patches of neon-green colored moss that didn’t look real. I was in Heaven and as such, I lingered more than I hiked.

Eventually, I caught up to the boys and we started the real ascent. After hiking up a worn path for a bit, we gained the mountain’s very exposed ridge. You wouldn’t want to slip either right or left as when climbing Blahnukur. The panoramic views that unfolded all around as we climbed higher and higher were astonishing. This was probably my favorite part of the day’s adventure because I love climbing ridges and to the tops of mountains.

When we reached the top another small group was starting down so again, we had some moments at the top all to ourselves. We sat and hung our legs over the edge of Blahnukur’s top and took some photos before starting our descent. Our descent was quick and we enjoyed a picnic in the fantastic setting that is Graenigil Canyon before eventually finishing the hike through more lava.

Our entire adventure was about 12 miles, and while we took our time taking in the views and eating snacks, we finished the whole hike in about 4.5 hours. Which meant we had a lot of time to soak in the natural hot springs near the trailhead!

Soaking in Landmannalaugar’s geothermal waters was a perfect ending to our time in Landmannalaugar.

We’re back home in Wyoming and I find myself recalling often the colorful mountains of Landmannalaugar. It truly is an unforgettable experience, and in my humble opinion, a visit to Iceland without time in Landmannalaugar will be incomplete.

(NOTE: The most famous long-distance trail in Iceland starts here and is called the Laugavegur. The trail is about 34 miles long (55 kilometers) and runs from the Landmannalaugar geothermal springs to the Þórsmörk nature reserve. The Laugavegur trail is considered to be one of the most epic treks in the world, and most people will reserve 3-5 days to hike its entire length. I have added it to my bucket list.)

For the rest of the Iceland story, and for additional Iceland-related blog posts:

Iceland or Bust

Iceland, Part 1 of 7: Blue Lagoon, Kerid Crater, Seljalandsfoss, Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skogafoss and Reynisfjara Beach

Iceland, Part 2 of 7: Katla Ice Cave, Vatnajökull, Skaftafell, Svartifoss and Svínafelsjökull Glacier

Iceland, Part 3 of 7: Climbing Fjallsjokul, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Lítanesfoss, Hengifoss and Seydisfjordur

Iceland, Part 5 of 7: Hiking in Landmannalaugar: Climbing Brennesteinsalda and Blahnjukur Volcanos

Iceland, Part 4 of 7: Studlagil Canyon, Dettifoss, Viti Crater, Hverfjall Crater, Lake Myvatn and Godafoss

Iceland, Part 6 of 7: Secret Solstice Music Festival!

Iceland, Part 7 of 7: Our Epic Grand Finale–Climbing Snaefellsjokull Volcano and Glacier

Our Family’s Camino de Santiago Adventure

April 4, 2019 by Shelli

Last summer, our family of five backpacked 150 miles of the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. It was an epic and meaningful adventure we will never forget. If you’re interested in learning more about what the experience is like, I’m including links below for daily blog posts I published each evening from the Camino. (Also included is the pre-Adventure blog post.)

I hope you may be inspired to embark on your own pilgrimage some day!

Pre-Adventure:
Spain or Bust: Camino de Santiago Here We Come

Blog Posts from the Field During our Camino De Santiago Pilgrimage:
Day 1 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 2 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 3 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 4 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 5 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 6 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 7 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 8 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 9 on the Camino de Santiago.

Day 10 – Our Last Day – on the Camino de Santiago.

We Made it! Day 10 of our Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage

June 18, 2018 by Shelli

This is a couple of days late because we’ve been celebrating. Also, I think it’s hard to articulate what I was, and am feeling, post-pilgrimage. I’m feeling a lot, and it will take some time to unpack and process. But for now, to keep up with my travel blogging, here’s a Day 10 (and final) pilgrimage report.

Greetings from Santiago, and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Even though one’s emotions can feel mixed when you reach the end of such a meaningful experience, it was certain that we were all ready to stop walking, and to wear something other than hiking clothes! We hit the trail early again, and had a couple of miles without many other pilgrims on the trail. But with about 9 miles left to go to Santiago de Compostela, it was like someone opened a gate and pilgrims entered the trail seemingly out of nowhere. It was an amazing experience, though, to be sharing “The Way” with so many pilgrims. All of us had self selected to do a pilgrimage, and the air was rich with a shared meaningfulness. We all walked with purpose. It was a great procession. The boys hiked hard and fast. They didn’t request as many snacks today as they have the last 9 days, and Jerry and I stayed right on their heels. We were all eager to reach Santiago de Compostela.

After 10 days of walking on the Camino, we got to know the familiar faces of the many pilgrims who were on a similar timeline and schedule. A kinship was formed, and we often greeted each other at lunch or on the trail, or in the village or town at dinner each evening. It was fun to share in each other’s anticipation of the grand finale today. I only met and conversed with one pilgrim today, but it was a good one. Meeting Gisele today was something I think God, or the Universe facilitated.

We were hiking up a big, long hill at about 10am, when I passed Gisele. I smiled, and said the customary “Buen Camino” to her. She smiled and returned the pleasantry, and added, “Are those your boys up ahead? Is that your family?” Yes I told her, and she complimented me, saying “It is beautiful to see your family out here. How wonderful.” We walked and talked for most of the uphill, and a little more. Gisele is originally from Columbia, but has been living in Miami for 23 years. She told me she used to be a nanny for three boys, and seeing my sons reminded her of those boys and that experience.

She shared that she owns a few properties in Miami, which she manages, and she recently quit a job where she worked with about 150 people. She has been walking the Camino for 6 weeks. I asked her what drew her to the Camino. She said one day she just realized she was racing. Every day felt like a race, and all around her at work, people were “like robots.” She said she, and all of the people she worked with/around came to work every day and they worked fast and furiously, often with headphones on or staring at their computers, and often not even looking at or seeing each other. She added before she knew it another day had gone by.

She explained, “One day I just decided I needed to stop. I just needed to stop my life. Every day was so busy and about doing as much as possible and the pace was so fast, I just needed to stop.” She said she also hoped to be closer to God. Next thing she knew she was walking the 720-kilometer/500-mile Camino de Santiago.

I asked her if her experience on the Camino has been successful in helping her to stop time. “Yes!” she exclaimed. She explained that her days have been reduced to literally just putting one foot in front of the other. Every day. She shared how when she started, it took her 10 hours to climb the mountain on the first stage, and she questioned her decision to walk the Camino. She said she has met so many wonderful people, and heard and experienced so many interesting and personal stories during the journey.

About halfway through her experience –in the middle of her 500-mile pilgrimage– she was walking along the path when a shepherd crossed the road right in front of her with about 500 sheep. She said she, and other pilgrims, had to stop in the road and wait and watch as the shepherd herded the sheep across the road. She explained that right in front of her on the road, one of the sheep in the back collapsed, falling right in front of her. “It looked at me with its brown eyes. It was dying.” She said one of the other pilgrims who saw it, chased down the shepherd and told her about the fallen sheep. The shepherd came back to see what was wrong, and looked at Gisele, and explained, kindly, “Death is part of life.” The sheep died right in front of Gisele.

With some other pilgrims’ help, the shepherd moved the dead sheep to the side of the road and carried on about his business. When Gisele got to an albergue that night she was still a little shaken, and when she was sharing what had happened with the sheep on the trail with a person at dinner, the person told Gisele, “That is a lesson for you. That life can change in an instant. You don’t know when your time is up. One minute you’re alive, the next minute you’re not… All you have is your next step, this moment you’re looking at right now.” (This reminded me of a passage in the book I started reading, and finished, during my flight to Europe, called The Year of Magical Thinking, by Joan Didion, which has been on my mind since I read it: “Life changes in the instant. The ordinary instant.”)

I asked her how she would return to her life in Miami, after the Camino pilgrimage. “I will take what I’ve learned here and apply it to my life in Miami. It will be hard, but I will do it. I know a different a way to be now.”

Gisele also told me about a 94-year-old French woman she met who started walking the 500-mile Camino de Santiago in early April, and who is still walking, behind her, somewhere along Camino. “I said to her, ‘Gosh! How do you do it? How do you walk for so long, and at your age?’ And she told me, ‘What do you think I should do? Sit in a chair and knit? I would rather walk on a trail in France and Spain that sit in a chair and knit.’” Gisele shared how that inspired her to continue her own walk, and how to live her life upon her return. I am so glad I met Gisele. Jerry, who was walking near us, took a photo of us that Gisele asked me to send her, so I will be in touch with Gisele again.

We eventually entered Santiago, and I would be lying if I didn’t report that we were disappointed when we viewed a street map that indicated we still had about 1-1/2 miles to walk (through the city) to get to our final destination! About a quarter-mile before arriving, Wolf offered to hold my hand, and we walked for some blocks that way, before he traded my hand to Hayden, who I walked with for a some blocks, before he gave my hand to Fin, who I walked some blocks with. Then, eventually Jerry! We practically ran into the great plaza where the great Cathedral is located. Yes, I cried. I was overcome with emotion, mostly gratitude. It was a most fulfilling experience, and it was even more meaningful than I imagined it would be.

After some hugs and a prayer and some photos, we went to the office to get our Credencials validated, and received our Compostela certificates. We had a great night of eating and celebrating and taking in the “Pilgrim” atmosphere of Santiago de Compostela. (I will share more personally and extensively about our family’s Camino de Santiago pilgrimage experience in a future blog post, after we return from this trip and I’ve had more time to reflect on and “unpack”/process the experience. As I write this, we’re on a plane headed to Barcelona, where we’ll enjoy the last few days of our trip.)
One last thing, though… Most people really are wonderful. All of the people we met or greeted or were greeted by in our 10 days on of pilgrimage were wonderful. We made so many new acquaintances and friends.

Two couples from Cincinnati became our fast friends as we saw them often at dinner along The Way, and ran into them one final time on our last night in Santiago last night. We’ll be keeping in touch. What neat people they are.

We also reunited with Amy, from CA, who I look forward to keeping in touch with. As soon as I met her, I knew she was my people. I look forward to keeping in touch with her and hopefully finding a way to make our paths cross again one day. And also, we ran into Jorian, from Holland! I had shared her story in an earlier post. A day before us, she completed the entire Camino and had celebrated the end when she was met by her Father, who flew to Santiago for the occasion. We had big hugs, and it’s a real possibility that we’ll do some work together in the future.

We also made friends with Peggy and Ian, a retired couple from Vancouver. They walked the entire Camino in just 29 days. It was something Peggy said she always wanted to do, and when her brother passed away last year and left bucket list items unchecked, it inspired her to not hesitate. Given the ambitious schedule they kept, they have 7 days to “spare”—and we again bumped into them on yesterday’s Muxia and Finisterre bus tour.

Thanks again for following along. Your thoughts and support have meant so much to us. Truly! Love, Shelli, Jerry and boys

Next up –and last stop on our Epic trip itinerary: Barcelona.